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Thread: Rivnuts and Earthing

  1. #1
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Rivnuts and Earthing

    Hello All,

    How good are rivnuts in a chassis for forming an earth point?

    I suspect that the earthing of my facet cylinder style fuel pump is not adequate. I used two rivnuts and rubber insulated Defender Air Cleaner rubber mounts for the pump. I copied the components and location of the fuel pump from the arrangement the Australian Army used on my military Series IIIs. This included two wire mesh straps that fit between the chassis and the bottom face of the rubber mount that is sandwiched against the chassis. The wire mesh extends past the rubber and is then sandwiched to the mounting face of the facet style pump.

    Now after a couple of months of being idle there is no movement from the facet pump when the ignition is turned on.

    I suspect that there is not enough earth as the pump does not have separate earth wire. As I do not have a welder I cannot weld a bolt on to act as a earth-point. Would installing another rivnut and making up two earth leads be effective. Or should I run two earth wires to an existing point where the earth is adequately connected.

    When I first installed the pump I had some issues with the earth and the pump operating.

    Well at least I hope it is an earth issue with the pump and not the pump itself as it has less than an hours use before the starter motor died. Last weekend I installed a new starter motor and now the fuel pump is not working !


    The left photograph shows the Defender air cleaner rubber mount that the Army used. Middle photograph is the new fuel pump on a civilian Land Rover and the right photograph is of my Army Series III that I copied off. The Army used rivnuts too.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel
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  2. #2
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    To test the pump, attach a jumper lead to the bottom of the pump and run it to a clean earth point. If the vehicle was mine, the earth wire would be a regular crimp terminal on a length of wire and a small mound of silicone sealant put over the nut that holds the pump and earth lead to the rubber mount. Then run the earth lead up with the power wire (e.g. twin cable inside a sleeve) to a clean earthing point up in the engine bay where it can be checked occasionally without crawling under the vehicle.

  3. #3
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello BeeUtey,

    I previously had the sole wire coming from the pump extended by a further length of 4mm wire that I finished with a female spade fitting. I positioned this onto one of the ignition barrel spare terminals that was live only when the ignition was turned on.

    I upgraded the wire to 6 mm and followed the Series III ex-Army's Land Rover's positioning and Dark's suggestion of hooking onto the coil terminal. I also made two separate runs of 6 mm wire - one for each mounting bolt for earth wires. I ran each wire to a newly cleaned earth point and then silicone sealed everything.

    Now when I turn the key I can hear the nice "Clickerty Click" sound of the electric fuel pump working away! Thanks B :0)

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  4. #4
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello All,

    Despite last weekend's work on twin earth wires and the interrupter - cylinder type Facet-clone pump seems to have given up the ghost. It gave a large spurt of fuel when I turned the pump on to flush the fuel line before I hooked it up to the fuel pressure regulator. After that I could hear a very soft sound of the pump running but no petrol flow. I checked and cleaned everything from the fuel inlet in the tank. Flushed the lines leading to and from the fuel pump. All to no avail.

    So I went to the local auto-parts store and bought a square type Facet-clone fuel pump. Shock horror the mounting bolt holes are in the same position as the cylinder pump holes are! I connected the wires up and the fuel lines.

    I turned the key and within a moment or two of self priming I had a steady uninterrupted flow of fuel.

    Unfortunately, as I was making the temporary fitment more secure I tightened the fuel line joiner just a bit too much. I stripped a thread on the brass barbed fitting with a female hex and the brass hex male fitting. This joint serves to connect the plastic to the metal fuel line. The free end of the metal fuel line then slides into the pipe that joins onto the fuel pump. This is an adaptation of the previous arrangement I had used with the cylinder pump's fittings.

    Of course I have run out of steel fuel line and the brass connecting fittings for it. So I am off to the parts place tomorrow afternoon - I will have to take an early mark from work.

    Of the two types of Facet Fuel pump which is considered the most reliable and efficient between the interrupter cylinder type pump and the square-cube type? I know the cylinder type is at least twice the price of the cube type.

    Having been bitten by a clone previously, I intend getting a genuine Facet pump and keeping it in the tool box for a time when I may need it.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel
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