Your other option is to get a piece of flexible hose to screw on the gun to take your long fitting (?).
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Your other option is to get a piece of flexible hose to screw on the gun to take your long fitting (?).
Im here [wink11]and i got the kit from super crap ,It was about $50.00 from memory and i remove my shaft off the T/C to do it with this tool from the kit[biggrin]
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/07/158.jpg
Mine looks like the needle valve you would use to inflate a footy but is about twice the size
The easiest way is to use the MacNaught needle point and take the floor out !
Easy peasy then, ;)
I've dropped the t/case end too, until I thought bugger it, and took the drivers floor out.
The U-shaped needle thingy might be worth a shot. I have a flexible hose on the grease gun but there isn't room to get it in with the fitting facing upward. Taking the floor out is problematic now as I glued mine all down with sikaflex a while back!
I have a previous thread on this - Greasing Tom Woods Driveshafts - never found a solution for doing it in situ.
I put long grease nipples on my perentie UJ's. I found nice skinny ones that cleared it well - bursons for $6.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/07/89.jpg
The grease nipple being discussed is not on a UJ. It's for the ball of the double-cardan. The reason why a flap special type is used is because the knuckles close over it - if a normal grease nipple or a long unit (such as what you have pictured) were fitted it would be crushed by the knuckles when the shaft rotates around. If it was two days ago when I had my front tailshaft out I would have taken photographs to illustrate for you but I've refitted it now.
Ok that makes a little more sense. Well the inverted type of nipple previously suggested might be your best bet then.