Ring Brad at KLR Automotive (02) 4721-3675. They know the 4BD1 - their favourite engine. All three of the mechanics have 4BD1-T powered Land/Range Rovers
Ron
I am planning to check the injection timing on my engine, but I seem to remember someone telling me the figure in the manual is incorrect - anyone know for SURE what it should be?
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Ring Brad at KLR Automotive (02) 4721-3675. They know the 4BD1 - their favourite engine. All three of the mechanics have 4BD1-T powered Land/Range Rovers
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Had a go at checking the timing on my engine today but couldn't get the marks to line up on the crankshaft aswell as the injection pump,did quite a few revolutions in the hope that it would come up but no luck.
In the end I removed the timing cover, re-aligned all the gears and reset the valve lash. Then I counted how many revolutions of the crankshaft it would take until all the timing gear marks would line up again.
Anyone want to take a guess at it?
Eric
10 degrees btdc I am pretty sure John.
Just checked my book and that figure is for the 4BD1T. It says 13 degrees for a NA 4BD1
Last edited by Bearman; 20th February 2011 at 07:35 PM. Reason: correction
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
Not even close, it took 107 turns of the crankshaft give or take a couple as there is a possibility that I miss counted once or twice.So a couple of tips are to remove the glow plugs and disconnect all the injection lines before you start. I had the radiator out aswell to get a socket on the crankshaft nut.
For anyone trying to do their timing and can't find the marks you now know that you could have quite a job ahead of you, checking for the marks every revolution.
Eric
Do you just want to check the timing or do you have an issue that needs resolved?
I've run the whole range of timing adjustment on my 4BD1T and simply through experimentation found the factory marks (on the pump mount) by coincidence are the best place to run my engine.
More advanced gives you a louder engine with more vibration and a fraction more power. On a turbo engine it delays boost arrival.
More retarded gives you a smoother and quieter engine with less bite but on a turbo engine it brings boost in a little sooner too.
A few hours experimentation (one of the bolts is an absolute PITA to get to) will show you how your engine responds and you'll then know exactly where you want it to be.
Regarding the timing marks. I think my flywheel also has a mark that shows up at TDC through a hole in the engine bellhousing.
Dougal,
I was checking the spill timing after rebuilding the engine which I made sure the gears were fitted properly.I thought the injection pump mark which is seen through the inspection hole in the timing cover would come up every 2 revolutions or so,but after about 10 turns I thought there was something wrong.While the timing cover was off it was a good learning experience to find out find for sure how many turns to get all the gears to line up again.
The flywheel mark you mention will show TDC but won't help much for the injection pump mark.
The bolts for injection pump aren't a problem at all,the outer 2 I used a normal spanner.The inner 2 I used a couple of 3/8" drive wobble extensions coupled with the ratchet and socket.
I have set the timing at 10 deg but haven't tried it yet,been busy doing other things.
I came to the same conclusion regarding the front timing case gears. I figured they might never line up again, but it's good to see you had the staying power required.
Last time I had the pump off I found TDC, hoped I had it on compression instead of exhaust and just fitted the pump with the window and mark lined up. The backlash in the gears means it doesn't line up quite as well as I was expecting it to.
Big relief when it started.![]()
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