YarnMaster
SupporterDon't frig around with drills and breaky-outs
Remove flange if enough shank try multi-grips
If that is no Bueno slip a 12mm nut over the stub weld it to stub
Heat of welding will help as well as now you have a nut to put a socket on
Will be quicker cheaper and more effective than above methods
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Fossicker
Originally Posted by roverrescue
I am hoping that the the stub has penetrated through the other side of the hub and i can do that.
A new hub will cost me about $80 which is only a few dollars more compared to picking up a set of easy outs and good quality drill bits (mine are ****) so ill grab the hub just in case i cant remove the broken bolt.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions i will post a photo or 2 tomorrow.
TopicToaster
SubscriberPerfect application for the Left-hand drill bit.
LH Drill bit was about 7 clams... not outrageous by any stretch of the imagination.
Works a charm. Clicky!
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Fossicker
I might just give that a go for $7 the only issue i will have is the bolt has broken off at an angle so it wasnt a clean break.
Swaggie
The L/H drill bit can be hit and miss and given you kinda have to get the drill to dig in and grip you have the risk of snapping the drill.
Years ago I had success once and two failures
LordRover
SubscriberQuite likely. I know mine are blue and cost a motza, but they will drill through a broken ez out, whatever the correct name is.I'll go one better and say get a carbide drillCobalt is for newbies
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
ChatterBox
SubscriberI've had success with the L/H drill bit with the variation that I grind a normal r/h drill bit to cut anticlockwise. Got to remember to regrind it the right way before you use it again- just last week I found myself trying to drill a hole with a drill bit that I had ground backwards probably 5 years ago.
Fossicker
I tried 2 different size easy outs with no luck and snapped a 5mm drill bit
I ended up changing the hub with a new Bearmach one for under $100 with new flange bolts
20170823_153747.jpg
Thanks for all the suggestions and tips.
Master
SupporterAs mentioned in an earlier post, weld it, get a piece of flat bar, drill a hole in it so it goes over the bolt, place it over the bolt and weld it giving it plenty of heat.
I do this all the time, this week I removed eight bolts out of a manifold, they all came out first go, but if it doesn’t, try it again.
Took me four goes on a turbo once but still better and quicker than drilling and tapping
thats as long as you have something to weld to, 3mm, a long way down
YarnMaster
SupporterDanny,
Looking at your picture post drilling it looks like the break was just below hub surface.
I would still have chosen the welder and got it out:
Two techniques that work in below surface extraction is using a brass or aluminium tube with OD the size of the minor thread diameters in this case a 9mm OD would work, then reach inside the tube and build up weld until you are above grade, then whack on a nut and weld it out. The tube prevents sticktion of weld to thread walls. This technique is fiddly but can be done with MIG or stick.
Another way is to take a small nut or steel sleeve that slides into the hole down onto snapped bolt then carefully with a TIG torch wet the centre of the sleeve onto the centre of the bolt but preventing burn through to threads...
Either of the above methods would have got that stud out in less time than it took to go and buy a drill bit...
Dont throw that hub away now that you have replaced it - it is still salvageable!
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks