Thread: Disco2 problems

Originally Posted by Tombie

The genuine LR item IS the Siemens unit.

Genuine LR item is A Siemens/VDO unit and it's not the same with much cheaper OEM Siemens?VDO unit ... i can't find the post where i explained so i say again:

The GENUINE theory

members of my family worked/are working for an automotive parts manufacturer(i'm not allowed to tell it's name) so i know exactly how it is from inside regarding some parts, those made for let's say BMW to become genuine BMW are made on a dedicated band and in some cases those which fail the BMW imposed requirements but still ISO compliant within accepted limits are sold as OEM not binned but there is another band which makes the same parts using lower quality/cheaper feedstocks which are sold cheaper as OEM's from the beginning, even the personnel who is working on the genuine sections is better paid and it's considered a promotion to get there, that's why Genuine is more expensive and this is the same for LR or any other make too... i made tests with NEW genuine LR MAF and OEM(aka genuine VDO/Siermens) on my own vehicle and other's and the readings were different even though both are made by VDO the casing's finishing is different too, aftermarket for LR is considered everything which is not genuine LR so that genuine VDO is still aftermarket IMO, it's a false myth that Genuine LR is an expensive OEM and you pay only the brand, my statement is that OEM is an expensive aftermarket made by a reputable manufacturer who makes the genuine parts for a specific vehicle builder too, i am 100% sure and nobody can convince me the opposite

IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference

I had 3 here... all gave slightly different readings. All absolutely the same housing, markings and surface finish...

2 OEM, 1 Genuine LR in box.

Agree with the OE etc confusion..
People ever wonder why there’s often 3 versions of OEM (Bearmach, Britpart etc)

So if you get three different readings what's correct?
Was the LR version any better then the OEM, was it more stable, will you really notice the difference if it's out by a small %?
Will the LR genuine last longer?

mmm.... if I had a spare $225 I'd do some testing!

Cheers Lemo

The genuine LR will deffinitely last longer and keep the reading's accuracy the most

All I can say is my experience.
My car (2002 TD5 auto EU3 D2) had an under reading MAF when I bought it 4+years ago which caused it to miss at the top of second at about 3900RPM.

Offtrack helped diagnose it .

I replaced it with a VDO from UK and it has gone perfectly ever since for 4 plus years even with a quite warm map big intercooler, more boost, EGR er mod, etc etc.
I do clean it with MAF cleaner every service and there has never been any fine dust on it.

I have probably just jinxed myself.
Regard sPhilip A

Thanks SF for an interesting explanation of what i know does happen in some manufacturing processes. From your tests can you share with us the airflow reading at idle, of a new “out of the box” genuine LR air flow sensor.

Great info guys, but starting to lose the thread a bit, still trying to work out the problem, mrs spoke to a guy from a land rover specialist in lonsdale, he seems to think it isn't the MAF, she says he named a few other things but she forgot to write them down, so I'm still stuck.

Originally Posted by onebob

Thanks SF for an interesting explanation of what i know does happen in some manufacturing processes. From your tests can you share with us the airflow reading at idle, of a new “out of the box” genuine LR air flow sensor.

At idle is not so much difference, the good reading is very close to 60 depends on the ambient temp too but the response under load is important where there were differencies up to 100Kg/hr, genuine LRs are more constant while OEM's are like aftermarkets can be a lottery, you can be lucky to get a reliable one or not as it's possible to get cheap chinese one which works OK, comparing two genuine LRs will never give noticeable difference while two OEMs can behave differently by new... this doesnt change anything from what i said which is 100% true about how they are built, that's why i said 90% of cases cos you can find two visually similar as both were built to be genuine on the same line while one of them failed strict tests but still ISO compliant within generally accepted limits.... i dont want to have a debate on this i just shared a real information from inside