Reply With QuoteYou could trace the battery negative lead back to the chassis and just piggyback on the same bolt.
Why not put a timer on the battery charger and set it to turn on for a few hours every week?
Master
SubscriberAttaching a screen shot of the instructions for the Projecta model I have. I only drive my Defender once a month and thought I should charge both my starting and auxillary batteries.
The instructions state for a battery within the vehicle to attach the negative lead to the chassis rather than the negative post on the battery. Does that mean I have to clean a patch on the chassis underneath the vehicle so I get a good earth. Where do you place the negative lead from the charger?
Also, if I only use my vehicle monthly how often should I charge the batteries to maximise my battery performance with the 7 stage charging process.
You could trace the battery negative lead back to the chassis and just piggyback on the same bolt.
Why not put a timer on the battery charger and set it to turn on for a few hours every week?
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comI am/was an electronics technician and I'd connect the black lead directly to the negative of the battery.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Master
SubscriberOriginally Posted by p38arover
Someone else also told me that and said "because it's a defender". HAha.
Projecta say for a battery not attached to the vehicle to place it on the post. What is their reasoning to do it differently when in the vehicle? An explosion or shorting out electronics?
AT REST
Connecting a negative clamp away from the battery was seen as good practice to avoid sparking near a gassing battery. Most modern batteries are pretty well sealed so the risk is lower. If you're in doubt, make a charging adaptor lead with a fuse and an Anderson plug outside of the battery box that you can just plug the charger into. Many chargers come with a lead that has an inline plug and spare connector in the kit for this purpose.
Disco Mick's suggestion for a timer is what I'd do too, electronic timers are pretty cheap.
Gas discharges from the battery?
Defender's don't have enough electronics to be an issue. Discoverys do and have a separate negative post.
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comYes. But as I don't connect/disconnect the leads with the charger switched on....
Using a 50A Anderson plug is a good idea. It can be mounted away from the battery box in an easy to access location. I can charge my aux. batteries via the rear mounted Anderson plug (I have a self-resetting circuit breaker in series with that plug).
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Master
SubscriberAlso when the motor is running, I have a Redarc switching mechanism so that when the Starter Battery is fully charged it switches to the auxillary battery to charge it. I assume that with the Projecta charger connected to the starter battery it does not then switch automatically to the auxilliary. Could someone clarify that for me. Is it only a switching mechanism via the alternator charge?
AT REST
Of course, because you have the knowledge. Many people don't.
AT REST
Redarc sell dual battery isolators that sense the main battery voltage and connect it to the auxiliary battery when it reaches a certain voltage. Unless your unit is different to normal it will link the batteries just fine in your situation. You should see a red light on the unit when the batteries are linked.
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