Whether its myth or not thats where im mounting mine as well Ron, the other bonus is the control box wont disrupt the airflow before the radiator.
Printable View
Whether its myth or not thats where im mounting mine as well Ron, the other bonus is the control box wont disrupt the airflow before the radiator.
Hi DrivesafeQuote:
Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi Defender200Tdi, how much did you pay for the actual switch.
Cheers.
The switch was $59.95. There's a very similar one on their website listed as "extra heavy duty battery switch", current price is $56.95 by the look of it.
Paul https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Thanks Defender200Tdi.
I have a thread running elsewhere on the site and I have referred back to your pics, I hope you don’t mind.
Cheers
Its no urban myth just ask any long serving police officer who worked in remote outback areas before they started to kerb petrol sniffing it became a good past time once the fumes took hold.
Dranged, whats involved in wiring up the isolator switch ?
Wiring the isolator is quite simple. Just run 2 heavy cables (mine are 50mm double insulated), one from the positive of each battery to the isolator switch. The third pole on the switch runs the positive to the winch. Ground to the winch runs direct as normal.Quote:
Originally posted by loanrangie
Dranged, whats involved in wiring up the isolator switch ?
I also have a split charge system and one of Drivesafe's SC40s set in 'Accessories' mode to protect the second battery. None of this affects the wiring for the winch though.
Another plus for the dual battery switch is if the split charge system ever craps itself, I can just set the switch to 'Both' and it will allow the alternator to charge both batteries.
drivesafe:
No worries linking to the photo. I have posted others on this site some time in the past showing the full writeup. If you want them again, just shout.
Paul https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Cheers mate.Quote:
Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
drivesafe:
No worries linking to the photo. I have posted others on this site some time in the past showing the full writeup. If you want them again, just shout.
I think people are confused with my isolation suggestion. If your control box (ie the relays for the winch ) is not on your bullbar but tucked away some where you only need to fit an isolation switch to the active supply that energises your relays for fwd or reverse.
I am not talking about isolating the full current lines to the relays from your batteries. It should cost you about $5.00 for a good toggle switch and about $5.00 for wire and crimps $2.50 for a 3 amp inline fuse holder. Even if someone plugs in a hand control your winch will not operate untill you activate the isolation switch. A good auto electrician will put you right.
Good luck
With all of this talk about isolating control boxes or main battery power on winches I thought I better talk to ARB HO about current Warn winches they supply as I am about to get a Warn winch and don't want my D3 cut in half.
This is the story. Most of their range now come out with 5 pin sockets on the controller which are designed to make tampering near impossible unlike the older controllers. I hope this is true.
Anyone like to confirm why this may or may not be true?
Thanks
Chris
Thanks, i knew what you meant.Quote:
Originally posted by DRanged
I think people are confused with my isolation suggestion. If your control box (ie the relays for the winch ) is not on your bullbar but tucked away some where you only need to fit an isolation switch to the active supply that energises your relays for fwd or reverse.
I am not talking about isolating the full current lines to the relays from your batteries. It should cost you about $5.00 for a good toggle switch and about $5.00 for wire and crimps $2.50 for a 3 amp inline fuse holder. Even if someone plugs in a hand control your winch will not operate untill you activate the isolation switch. A good auto electrician will put you right.
Good luck