YarnMaster
Supporter
Winch isolation solenoid
Anyone running a heavy duty solenoid to isolate the main winch power cable? e.g. like mentioned in www.discovery2.co.uk / Twin Battery - Split Charge
If so, what solenoid did you use and where did you source it?
I have previously tried both the key switch (battery isolation switch) that came with my Ironman winch:
and the twist isolation power cable:
and had issues with both which have left me in a situation where I've had to either rely on someone else winch to be used or tools out and rejigged things to get it going again.
YarnMaster
SupporterHave you also fused / isolated the supply to your starter motor?
Double insulated wire running in conduit with good installation and good terminations to the winch solenoid and winch and breathe out
Sure isolate the 12V or earth of the switching side of the winch solenoid if you want to prevent inadvertent power supply to winch BUT all those high current fuses / isolators / switches tend to bring the suck for very little gain (as you have experienced)
s
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Never fitted an isolator to a winch install yet.
Easiest. If you think about it. Is to just undo the lead at the battery.... same thing!
Master
I installed a hella isolator.
Big ass switch rated for 500 amp constant
Master
My Runva winch comes with an isolator
Not rated no brand Chinese made so....I tossed it
Wizard
SupporterI have a solenoid supplied as part of a kit from ARB, with a control switch in the cab. Also have the Anderson jumper lead kit wired to the dead side of the solenoid. The solenoid is made for the job, not sure of its rating, but any of those type of things are not really meant to be switched under load. They are "isolators" as the name suggests.
TopicToaster
SubscriberOh Hi,
Yes I have.
Fitted one of these by Blue sea systems to the winch power cable. Good for 700A for a 5min interval (will take a pizzling in laymans terms). Good for 500A continuous.
Switched remotely via carling switch, or manually via yellow knob. IP66 rated, so safe for defender Lyf.
Overkill? Probably. But I knew I didn't want the weak link in my winch setup to be the switch... unlike a lot of the other offerings out there.
If you want a twist lock style on the cheap, check out a welding cable joiner from your favourite welding shop. These are conservatively rated to 500A, and can take up to 95mm2 cable...
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Master
You rich man.....Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
Oh Hi,
Yes I have.
Fitted one of these by Blue sea systems to the winch power cable. Good for 700A for a 5min interval (will take a pizzling in laymans terms). Good for 500A continuous.
Switched remotely via carling switch, or manually via yellow knob. IP66 rated, so safe for defender Lyf.
Overkill? Probably. But I knew I didn't want the weak link in my winch setup to be the switch... unlike a lot of the other offerings out there.
If you want a twist lock style on the cheap, check out a welding cable joiner from your favourite welding shop. These are conservatively rated to 500A, and can take up to 95mm2 cable...
TopicToaster
SubscriberNot anymore
Like I said, probably overkill, but definitely fit for purpose. I've got one of the red key style hella units... IIRC they are good for only 50A.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
OldBushie
SupporterI have one of those twist isolators fitted and it works flawlessly
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
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