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Go the V8 Ace 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
I could be talked into selling a ford C4 auto and rebuilt unused transfercase,mine is a cleveland C4 but 99.9% sure Windsor/Cleveland are the same transmission bolt pattern.
If you do go the ford V8 conversion go for a Windsor,the Cleveland is a tight fit.The Transfercase is more than tough enough,you will need a Sailsbury bum and preferably a stage 1 front diff (I havent got 1)and brakes(could sell some new brakes too)
Andrew
if the above v8 offer uses a series transfer thats not a bad option.
i know a few guys with 8's (chevs and rovers) using series transfers, they're as strong as hell.
david
Met a guy on the weekend with a IIA and a 3.5 Rover engine. A daily driver to and from his work. Had higher ratio diffs. Said he had never broken anything in the original gearbox nor driveline. Seemed like
Apparently this thing can go to 140 on the highway. Uprated the front drums to help it stop better.
My site at www.slunnie.com is down at the moment - apparently the server had a melt down but it should be up again shortly.Quote:
Originally posted by DaveS3
Anyway - its doable.
PS - Shoot over to OL and look at Slunnies Project, he has done the 3.5 and 4 speed converion amoungst other things.
Dave
Fitting a V8/LT95 SWB can be done, but its a lot of work. You'll need to move most Xmembers, cut the firewall, change to power steering, change diffs or at least diff ratios from 4.7 to 3.54 or similar. I ended up0 changing over to Landcruiser 60 4.1 diffs which are an easy fit being leaf sprung already (Hlux also),Brake MC needs to be changed to suit the axles, tailshafts are also needed - for me a rear Disco uni-uni shaft became the front and I had to push the rear axle further back to fit a rear in, using a Hilux DC front shaft which brought the wheelbase out to 100". Depending on the height you place the engine at, you may also need to alter the interior and mid/rear X member also if you want to keep it all behind the IIa front facia.
Perhaps if you put the V8 onto the IIa transmissions which are a lot shorter it may be ok, though possibly less reliable. (actually with all of the mods to run the LT95 it'd probably be more reliable!
Thanks for tha advice guys. I would love to drop a TDi in but as mentioned above the cost is far greater. A rover v8 can be had quite cheap, someone has already pm'd me offering me one for a good price. I want to go down this route because the driveability will be better, and converted to gas would be a suitable daily driver. It will also be a good weekend toy aswell.
If you put rangie diffs in, do you need to drop the box and tc from the rangie in aswell? would the rangie diffs mate up to the series II box and tc? and does putting the rangie diffs in mean you need to change suspension mounts to convert to coils?
Slunnie- what did you need to do to put the cruiser diffs in?
A ford v8 is a possibility but i want to keep the engine rover if possible, i would prefer to use rover running gear but if cruiser diffs will fit easier then its a possibility. Matt
I've put them in a bit funny, so may not be a true indication of what you need to do.
The front has gone in with the springs over the axle, which meant that I had to weld the top perches flat and then they just bolt in. Find U-bolts to suit and use the Landy plates redrilled. I have not done shocks yet. Hilux pinion flange machined to suit Rover tailshaft. You will need to use a Series 3 brake assembly to mount the LC master cylinder also which has a booster. Steering you could probably use the standard LC setup from the LR steering relay or use a full LC60 power steering setup with Rover PAS pump on the V8, though as I'm sprung over I did a X-over setup using hilux parts.
For the rear, I did a full coil setup using my own lower links to the front spring perches on the chassis and a RR A frame on top. Setup normally the LC axle should go in with new perches, though the diff pumpkin may get in the way of the chassis a little. The Landy chassis lines up just at the front but is narrower than the flared Toyota axles in the rear. You will also need to run a hilux pinion flange on the diff which has been machined to suit the Rover tailshaft.
The axles will be pretty wide for the series body and the tyres will stick outside the guards, so setup normally you will also need to trim the guards back to suit.
Just reading your other thread ACE, this will also get rid of the single circuit brake system, into a duel setup using LC60 axles - though still not as good as the more common 3 and increasingly 4 circuit brakes.
Thanks slunnie. Did you ever think of dropping the running gear from an old rangie into the SII? Or did you do down that line only to fund it was to difficult and the cruiser option was best? Matt
The cruiser option is by far the strongest (and able to be upgraded for similar $$ to rover) and probably a similar price to by intially.
Didn't even consider the Rangie stuff, its too weak. Initially I went for Hilux gear for strength, width and gearing for oversized tyres, then changed over to LC60 axles for more strength and extra width. The LC axles also had more suitable gearing which brought me back to standard gearing (for the speedo) on 37" tyres.
Looking at it now, I think it would be more mucking around trying to fit waeker Rangie axles to a series body than LC axles. The Rangie gear is all coil and linked setup, whereas the LC stuff is already setup for leaf suspension - the front perches with LC60's and Hiluxs are already very very close to the IIa's and the axle will bolt straight in.