I wasn't confident in setting up the diffs, as I'm getting all bearings and seals replaced.
But installing the ATBed diff is going to be simpler than installing an air locker diff would be with all the detail that beery already pointed out.
As a home hobby mechanic I wouldn't be confident in drilling the diff housing for the air line .. one mm slippage could be the world of difference to longevity of operation.
If you look at the Megasquirt diff website, they have a video on the pitfalls of the ARB setup, and the potential issues of the copper line looped around the crownwheel.
It can wear the copper line if it flexes enough under stressful conditions, or press it against the housing and cause chafing .. etc.
You have to be pretty much 100% sure you know how to do it.
Installation of a std diff housing setup like an ATB is on the outside is the same as a normal diff, unbolt/remove/refit/bolt up.
Hopefully the thread will take a turn for the better and not continue on it's current one vs the other course.
As already said, the point is to highlight how they work.
Some more experience as to how it translates into actual experience from those that have them fitted would be nice to read too.
When my mechanic finishes my diffs, and I have them fitted, I intend to find some spots to gain experience with them.
Not only am I fully expecting to drive with a left foot braking mind set, I do that anyhow. Have done so since before my right leg accident issue, for all of my driving life.
Manual or auto. With a manual I'd estimate most of the time (> 50%), and with auto .. all of the time.
So the use of a bit of left foot braking whilst driving, to help maintain traction/motion/momentum/engine revs in some situations where required, isn't an issue for me.
I've read that the ATB causes a slight stronger return to centre steering effect after a turn. My D1 already has that(no front ATB), but brother's D2 far less by comparison.
