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Thread: New driving lights...which ones?

  1. #11
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    G'day edddo.
    I have a pair of IPF rectangular lights that you can 'have'.
    I'm never going to mount them again, as I personally don't like them(compared to the LED bar I fitted that is).

    They're in OK condition, very small amount of rust on the chrome bezel, but I think the black bodies are rust free.
    They have a combo spread/spot pattern so penetrate well(possibly 300-ish m) and spread wide too.

    Reason I don't like them:
    1. will obviously affect flow to radiator, and considering hot weather running with AC on and tdi under load(ie. uphill, etc) I'm glad I pulled them off. The grille itself is partly to blame for the quite hot running of the engine in those situations .. so the driving lights will have only compounded the situation.
    2. not quite as bright overall as the LED bar, LED bar is only about 50mm high and a tapered tail design(for sure better flow back to the rad).
    3. with 2x 100w (H3) globes, they do require good wiring compared to the lower draw from LEDs.

    ps. LEDs do have one major failing tho. When they fail, they usually fail totally, and you can't just get another globe to get them working again .. so I understand the overall pros and cons situation.

    But, if you're patient and we can tee up a time for a catchup(or if you're in Melb's north suburbs any time when I'm available) you're welcome to try them.
    Only reason I've kept them is to try out various H3 LED globes on them to see if they are of any value(to me).

    Height dimension is not a problem for you @ 160mm, and they are 210mm wide, so the location and or spacing of your mount holes and bull bar uprights may affect mounting.
    My D1 has a TJM(looking bar) and they were mounted on a floating bar just above the main square section(bumper level). Only just fit into their spots on the mounting tabs on this floating bar, with not much room to the vertical uprights on the bar.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Haha.

    And it’s cool to have your own ideas.

    I also am a huge fan of Science and Medicine... New driving lights...which ones?

    I’m getting old, and the last thing I want is to be doing something or using something that is proven to be damaging/degrading my vision...
    Also getting old.....which lights have been proven to degrade vision?

  3. #13
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    Also getting old.....which lights have been proven to degrade vision?
    Hi Temperature / Blue end of the spectrum.

    AMA just did a release on the impact of LED lights.
    It messes up body rhythm, sleep patterns, vision...

    If you decide to go with HID keep the temp warm... better CRI, easier on your eyes (look up rods and cones and see how we see) and therefore less fatigue inducing.

  4. #14
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    Just looking at prices of various options. Easy to see why people go for light bars.
    I dont plan to drive at night in fact I actively avoid it.
    But recently I got caught short and had get to a camp after dark - my car with my eyesight, is quite dangerous without better lighting.
    From an airflow to radiator perspective an 18 (ish) inch led light bar or 2, 7inch led lights might be a good option as they are so low profile.
    The D1 is not endowed with excessive cooling capacity.

    Thanks AK for the offer! Not sure which way to go just yet.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Hi Temperature / Blue end of the spectrum.

    AMA just did a release on the impact of LED lights.
    It messes up body rhythm, sleep patterns, vision...

    If you decide to go with HID keep the temp warm... better CRI, easier on your eyes (look up rods and cones and see how we see) and therefore less fatigue inducing.
    OK similar to spending too much time on PC or other IT devices in the evenings. The blue light reduces melatonin production, which we need for the natural onset of sleep.
    My night driving would be very time limited...but certainly a consideration...thanks.

  6. #16
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    OK similar to spending too much time on PC or other IT devices in the evenings. The blue light reduces melatonin production, which we need for the natural onset of sleep.
    My night driving would be very time limited...but certainly a consideration...thanks.
    Yes. One of the reasons I run a night mode on my devices..

    All my devices switch to a warm mode in the evening.

  7. #17
    Tombie Guest
    A simple set of Hella Compacts would likely serve you well.

  8. #18
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    I have gone to the LED options for my driving lights and a lightbar because I got sick of replacing the HID's because of the stone damage smashing them, The LED's are far more "Robust" and can handle the odd boondie hitting them.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    .....

    Thanks AK for the offer! Not sure which way to go just yet.
    Going by your sig, I'm guessing you've got a D1.

    If that's the case, I can highly recommend the Philips Ultinon H4 headlight package.
    It comes with two properly designed H4 LED globes, two electronic boxes to run them, which plug into your 3 pronged headlight plug.
    Other than the fact that you need to mount the electronic boxes(easy) they are pretty much plug'n'play.
    But with the caveat that not quite as easy as the standard H4 plug'n'play setup.
    The major issue is a lack of depth behind the headlight to allow for many H4 LED designs heatsink AND also allow for the rubber cover to be refitted to the rear of the light body.
    The Ultinon design is simpler and it fits(the D1).

    I bought my dad a set of cheaper LED H4's with the traditional heatsink rear end design for his Ford Explorer, which has more room for the heatsink. They worked well too, but won't fit the D1 easily.
    Dad wanted better lights for similar reasons that you stare .. he avoids driving at night, but sometimes gets caught out. He's 84.

    The electronic box with the Philips globes mounts easily on the rear panel behind the light with plenty of room to move around.

    Reason for my use of the LED globes in my main lights was simple. It was that, or a loom update .. remembering that LEDs require less current. So with the LEDs now fitted, I didn't have to change wiring to get more power to a pair of halogens!
    Took me less than an hour to fit the LED globes, and I reckon most of that time was taken up on 'smoko' breaks!

    I fitted the LED bar before I updated the main lights. With the main lights being LEDs now have made the light bar almost redundant when I use high beams.
    Whilst the LED bar does add additional brightness to the LEDs on high beam, it's nothing like the extra light they made with the halogen main globes.

    So considering your reasoning for the driving lights, I'd reckon you're better to look into the options of either: better main globes(ie,. good quality LEDs), or updating the headlight wiring loom.

    The Philips LEDs were about $200(maybe $220, I think), so, pretty much on the ultra high side, whereas my dads cheaper LED H4 conversion were more like $80.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    These ones?

    eBay


    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Going by your sig, I'm guessing you've got a D1.

    If that's the case, I can highly recommend the Philips Ultinon H4 headlight package.
    It comes with two properly designed H4 LED globes, two electronic boxes to run them, which plug into your 3 pronged headlight plug.
    Other than the fact that you need to mount the electronic boxes(easy) they are pretty much plug'n'play.
    But with the caveat that not quite as easy as the standard H4 plug'n'play setup.
    The major issue is a lack of depth behind the headlight to allow for many H4 LED designs heatsink AND also allow for the rubber cover to be refitted to the rear of the light body.
    The Ultinon design is simpler and it fits(the D1).

    I bought my dad a set of cheaper LED H4's with the traditional heatsink rear end design for his Ford Explorer, which has more room for the heatsink. They worked well too, but won't fit the D1 easily.
    Dad wanted better lights for similar reasons that you stare .. he avoids driving at night, but sometimes gets caught out. He's 84.

    The electronic box with the Philips globes mounts easily on the rear panel behind the light with plenty of room to move around.

    Reason for my use of the LED globes in my main lights was simple. It was that, or a loom update .. remembering that LEDs require less current. So with the LEDs now fitted, I didn't have to change wiring to get more power to a pair of halogens!
    Took me less than an hour to fit the LED globes, and I reckon most of that time was taken up on 'smoko' breaks!

    I fitted the LED bar before I updated the main lights. With the main lights being LEDs now have made the light bar almost redundant when I use high beams.
    Whilst the LED bar does add additional brightness to the LEDs on high beam, it's nothing like the extra light they made with the halogen main globes.

    So considering your reasoning for the driving lights, I'd reckon you're better to look into the options of either: better main globes(ie,. good quality LEDs), or updating the headlight wiring loom.

    The Philips LEDs were about $200(maybe $220, I think), so, pretty much on the ultra high side, whereas my dads cheaper LED H4 conversion were more like $80.

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