Page 3 of 10 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 98

Thread: New driving lights...which ones?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yep, that's them.
    I just had a quick search on ebay and noticed a set for about $205 or so. That ad showed the entire kit.
    Note how the led chip on the body of the lamp is shielded.
    I'm sure that's why these types(design) works so well, compared to the cheapie H4 LED you may see, where the LED chips aren't shielded.
    A mate had one of those cheapie types on his Harley, and all it did was scatter the light everywhere, which I think makes the reflector in the light body pretty much redundant. Bright light, but not well defined as they're designed to be.

    What makes the Philips design of the heatsink easy is that you install the LED light bulb section, place the rubber cover back over the protruding section(which has a wire permanently fitted) then screw the heatsink onto the back of the LED bulb body on the outside of the rubber cover.
    The number of turns needed to fit the heatsink is a little annoying, would have been nicer if they used a coarser thread(fewer turns of the heatsink).

    D1 light assembly is easy to remove, as it just pops out(from it's clips), so install is pretty straight forward(for the control boxes).
    If you do get them or try them and hence fit them, maybe also order a set of those plastic clips too. They crack pretty easily on the mount flange(on the back of the light assembly) and when fitted back up can be a bit loose.
    I got a bulk pack of those clips as well.. about $2 each or so.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Going by your sig, I'm guessing you've got a D1.

    If that's the case, I can highly recommend the Philips Ultinon H4 headlight package.
    It comes with two properly designed H4 LED globes, two electronic boxes to run them, which plug into your 3 pronged headlight plug.
    Other than the fact that you need to mount the electronic boxes(easy) they are pretty much plug'n'play.
    But with the caveat that not quite as easy as the standard H4 plug'n'play setup.
    The major issue is a lack of depth behind the headlight to allow for many H4 LED designs heatsink AND also allow for the rubber cover to be refitted to the rear of the light body.
    The Ultinon design is simpler and it fits(the D1).

    I bought my dad a set of cheaper LED H4's with the traditional heatsink rear end design for his Ford Explorer, which has more room for the heatsink. They worked well too, but won't fit the D1 easily.
    Dad wanted better lights for similar reasons that you stare .. he avoids driving at night, but sometimes gets caught out. He's 84.

    The electronic box with the Philips globes mounts easily on the rear panel behind the light with plenty of room to move around.

    Reason for my use of the LED globes in my main lights was simple. It was that, or a loom update .. remembering that LEDs require less current. So with the LEDs now fitted, I didn't have to change wiring to get more power to a pair of halogens!
    Took me less than an hour to fit the LED globes, and I reckon most of that time was taken up on 'smoko' breaks!

    I fitted the LED bar before I updated the main lights. With the main lights being LEDs now have made the light bar almost redundant when I use high beams.
    Whilst the LED bar does add additional brightness to the LEDs on high beam, it's nothing like the extra light they made with the halogen main globes.

    So considering your reasoning for the driving lights, I'd reckon you're better to look into the options of either: better main globes(ie,. good quality LEDs), or updating the headlight wiring loom.

    The Philips LEDs were about $200(maybe $220, I think), so, pretty much on the ultra high side, whereas my dads cheaper LED H4 conversion were more like $80.
    How do you find the colour ?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    7,372
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I know OzScott has done just that with an old pair of Super Oscars and really rates them. Even though they were designed way back in the seventies or maybe even the late sixties, god they were a good design.

    The limited time I've spent behind HID's a few years ago I found them that little bit harsh/glarey, but it might come down to colour temp too. Oh, and they were factory stock headlights in the ex's Citroen.
    Yep I really like them Rick. I went a warm. They reflect on road signs but that's because they are very bright. Great for long distance travel. The Super Oscars are an awesome light. Well built - steel with beautiful polished chromed reflectors but as Rick says they weather. You can buy new reflectors but i think I will go a new pair already HID'd next time.

    Cheers

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    7,372
    Total Downloaded
    0
    On my D2 main lights I run German made Osram Nightbreaker Extremes and adjust the beams up slightly as the extra grunt gets you better distance and I never get flashed on low. Had these bulbs for years (stock wattage) and they have done Cape York and other corrugated roads and are still going. Very easy light to live with. Cheers

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose SA
    Posts
    2,838
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you use Oscars and Super Oscars on rough dirt roads the rivets in the base shake out.
    A real pain but you do need to drive a lot of rough roads though doubt if a tourist car would do it

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    7,372
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My brother fitted up a client's D2a with Steady LED spotties and Steady light bar (full width in effect) on the roof and the light is insane. But probably too white for me. Impressive in terms of massive flooding and no pockets of dark. Cheers

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    7,372
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had heard about the rivets. I had a set for 12 years and they never did that but it wasn't being driven on corrugations a lot. I am form follows function on most things but I really like the slightly retro feel of Super Oscars and they suit the D2 very well. Cheers


  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    If you use Oscars and Super Oscars on rough dirt roads the rivets in the base shake out.
    A real pain but you do need to drive a lot of rough roads though doubt if a tourist car would do it
    Yes they do too!

    I re-riveted the ones on the ex's GU with 3/16" monel sealed rivets that seemed to last ok?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I had heard about the rivets. I had a set for 12 years and they never did that but it wasn't being driven on corrugations a lot. I am form follows function on most things but I really like the slightly retro feel of Super Oscars and they suit the D2 very well. Cheers
    I agree !

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    7,372
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Another...cant help myself. (Even let a D3 sneak into the shot)

    Cheers

Page 3 of 10 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!