Thread: TerraFirma Wheels Bead Lock broken bolts

Is this part of the reasoning why beadlocks aren't legal for road use?

Can you get nylock nuts in there instead or Loctite to reduce the chances of reoccurring?

The nuts were nylocs.
Your comment about legality makes me wonder if they are true bead locks or just a dress rim.

Iirc they do both

Originally Posted by p38arover

The nuts were nylocs.

Ah sorry, I just reread and realised that the bolts broke rather than worked their way out. Hopefully just cheap bolts and replacing with decent ones will solve happening again.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Ah sorry, I just reread and realised that the bolts broke rather than worked their way out. Hopefully just cheap bolts and replacing with decent ones will solve happening again.

Not unexpected from Cheap made Terrafirma gear!

I have almost the same terrafirma beadlock wheels (TF107 from the top of my head) for the D2/P38. Just to put one thing straight: these rims are made in italy by a company called rvs. Not sure how much better his makes them as opposed to chinese

In any case, I too was missing a handfull of bolts from the front only, all broken. I wondered if I had used the wrong torque setting, wrong tyre presure or whatever but I could not figure it out so I replaced all the bolts with stainless steel ones. I too am puzzled as to what caused this but I did notice whilst replacing the bolts with the SS ones some of them were REALLY tight, no wonder some others had actually broken. Perhaps temperature and different expansion rates of rubber and alloy (and the bolts) plays a part here.

I would love to hear how you torqued them and to what setting. I have found it REALLY difficult to get this job done, 26 bolts per wheel and torquing them means that you have to go over them numerous times since rubber is pliable and once you got one round of torquing done, the bolts next to the one you just set are too loose again. Round and round (well in a cross pattern of course) you go untill all of them are about right. It took me close to an hour per wheel to get them done.

Also, getting the wheel on perfectly straight is a bit of a challenge. I could not get the wobble out of my wheels so I resorted to using a (not sure about the english name) lathe or tyre truer on which you mount the wheels and a small portion of rubber is ground of making them true round. On MTR's with 18mm of profile depth I could loose 1mm

PS to be completely honest, I found it next to impossible to truly go in a cross pattern so I crossbolted them in pairs.

Cheers,
-P

Are you saying you put Stainless into Alloy? That’s likely to react, so keep an eye on them.

So TF has gone Spa for Alloys? That’s a bit more reassuring (and surprising)

Originally Posted by p38arover

The nuts were nylocs.
Your comment about legality makes me wonder if they are true bead locks or just a dress rim.

Is there actually nuts?

I l’m lost how you would assemble with nuts, although I have no experience with Bead Locks.