Thread: Range Rover Classic body lift

My be your brake lines

<span style="color:blue">yeah...if you have a bull bar and/or rear step...these mount to the chassis
and may look out of place when the body is lifted......

your gear selectors will be too short as the floor goes up and they dont.....

the fan shroud and radiator are mounted to the body.....which will go up...
the engine is mounted to the chassis...which wont move....
so you may need to lower the radiator by fabricating some brackets....


thats all i can think of right now......not impossible....just fiddly....</span>

Thanks guys,

I intend to leave the radiator where it is and lower the fan shroud. When I did a three inch body lift on my Kingswood I found that if I lowered the radiator I lost too much airflow and had overheating issues.

Brake lines I will have to look at as I lift, but 30 mm isn't much at all.

The rear step will require a bit of modification to get the lines right, but one of the reasons I am doing the lift is to get the bullbar fitting better. It is an ARB bar to suit Discovery 1. It doesn't quite fit, but it was that excellent price!

Loosen the steering column before lift. Tighten after.
Seat belt bolts to chassis may/will need lengthening.
Rear body supports in rear wheel arch will need a bit of square tube welded on top.
Low/high selector may need opening in floor opened up each end.
regards Philip A

Auto selector is cable so no probs there, i would lower the rad then it will still be in line with the fan.

Auto selector pfft. Who drives autos?? 5 speed manual for me.

I will make the radiator / fan decision as I go. I feel that it is more important to keep the radiator lined up with the hole in the rad support panel for maximum airflow than to drop it down to keep the fan lined up. Either way, I don't think the 30 mm lift will have anywhere near the same effect that a bigger lift does.

Dont forget the clutch slave cylinder line as it is quite tight as standard. Just modify the fan shroud you can rivet in plastic extensions on the top to cover the gap. be aware that the 2 rear body mounts are not very ridgid and may bend if you dont fit 30mm spacers on your load area supports.
If you go to a local engineering shop with 1 of your seat belt mounts ( the ones that go through the mount on the chassis) they can machine up some that are 30mm longer. Your brake lines may seem ok but check them on full articulation before you forget.
Check your handbrake lever as it gets pulled tighter in the boot and activates the indicator light constantly.

You will find something else I am sure.

Regards Justin

I've done a 25mm body lift on 2 of my Rangies and it's much easier than a 50mm as you don't need to lengthen brake lines, etc.. I do sugest you look at altering the mounting of them for peace of mind

The rear seatbelt mounts will need to be lengthened. A couple of bits of strip steel with 2 pins with holes 30mm longer will work. You also need the blocks for the 4 rear supports in the wheel arches. Front ones are just long enough. There's also 2 near the gearbox that support the floor section, but I never botherd with these.

Radiator supports need lowering and the steering shaft will need to be loosned to allow them to slide up with the 30mm bodylift.

I also suggest wheil you're at it, renew the chassis rubbers if they are looking sad. They cost about $70 for a complete set from emory.

Bumpers, I never botherd. Rangies this isn't a big issue but Discos have a wraparound bumper and you really need to lift it as it looks odd...

Anyway. It's pretty simple, it's the small things that make it tricky.

Good luck with it.

Trav

Trav