Does anyone know of a machine shop on the southside of brisbane that would have the ability to cut new key ways into the crank of a hs 2.8?
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
why ? , it would be easier to cut a new keyway in the harmonic balancer .
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
I would also mic the nose to see how tapered it is. VERY unusual not to have flogged the crank O.D. out of round if balancer been loose...
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Glue the key into the crank with liquid metal, clean it up when set then fit pulley etc and tighten it up properly. The key is for accurate location, not for drive forces.
I would just weld one in. Small tig tacks should do it.
Check for taper as Justinc suggests.
Under previous ownership the nose bolt was not properly tightened on one of my Disco. Under force from the harmonic the key fretted one side of the slot. Eventually the harmonic sheared off the top of the key. There was just enough key sitting proud in the slot to mill the inside of the harmonic, giving it an oversized internal diameter. One day I will sleeve the harmonic as it was near new, and put it back into service.
To repair the slot. I squared up the fretted side, using a small Dremel grind stone of about 1" dia. This made the slot much wider than the key. I cut a small piece of steel shim to take up the extra space. Then as bee utey suggests, at final assembly I 'mortared' the shim to the repaired side using liquid metal, with a new key in place to support the shim while the liquid metal cured. And it does cure very quickly. Done in situ bending over the fender into the engine bay.
Have had the harmonic off a couple of times to do timing belts, and the key, shim and liquid metal is still good.
I agree, the key is for location and not drive force, but this sort of statement draws a differing opinion - so will let bee utey do the defending
Secret is getting the nose bolt tight, as I do on all four of my Disco1's - some use loctite - to me this is not necessary (and not in the Haynes) and makes later disassembly problematic - another statement that draws a differing opinion - over to bee utey again!!
I will measure the crank tomorrow.
All good ideas.
The easiest for me would be to tig the keys in.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
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