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Any chance of a pic, DeeJay?Quote:
Originally posted by DeeJay
I use a ex army "d" hook that were on the front of the Ser 3 Landies. I welded two 8mm side plates so it slips over the tube arrangement already there. There are two holes drilled in these side plates that match up with the existing holes.( I can only see one on your County)
So, come 4wd time I drop out the towbar and slip over the bracket with "D" hook and replace the two bolts
Ron
I would not like it - you want something that pulls on the centre of the crossmember, so the load is shared between the bolts. If yoou pull at either the top or bottom of the tube you are only loading the top (or bottom) pair of bolts, with any load on the others as the top (or bottom) ones start to yield - and the load on the top (or bottom) bolts is increased a little by the leverage. And you would probably distort the tube too, particularly if you used the top.Quote:
Originally posted by p38arover
Dunno if it would put too high a load on the top bolts. What about fitting this into the receiver?
http://winches-aust.com/WEBPAGES/war...cs/Shackle.jpg
Ron
<span style="color:indigo">even better.....a hole drilled about an inch above the pin...
through both the hitch and the receiver.....then a big shackle fitted through that....
the recovery forces will be pulling more evenly on that plate.....
maybe even weld a bit of webbing on the receiver to strengthen it....
after all...toyotas are heavy vehicles.....</span>
Quote:
Originally posted by JDNSW+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JDNSW)</div><div class='quotemain'>I would not like it - you want something that pulls on the centre of the crossmember, so the load is shared between the bolts. If yoou pull at either the top or bottom of the tube you are only loading the top (or bottom) pair of bolts, with any load on the others as the top (or bottom) ones start to yield - and the load on the top (or bottom) bolts is increased a little by the leverage. And you would probably distort the tube too, particularly if you used the top.[/b]
They were my thoughts as well. I'm not quite sure what you mean in your original proposal of this:
<!--QuoteBegin-JDNSW
I would be inclined to make up an attachment consisting of a pair of 10mm plates each with two holes, one for the pin, and the other with a 20mm bolt through it clamping a suitable length of heavy wall pipe the same length as the OD of the square tube. [/quote]
Do I take this to be something that will sit "around" the existing towbar receiver but aligns the recovery pulling centre with the centre bolts of the receiver mount - if you understand my drift.
However, re.....
.... I assume you mean JATE rings http://www.landroverstuff.com/jaterings.htmQuote:
Originally posted by JDNSW
The "correct" rear recovery points, from my reading are similar gadgets replacing the two tie down points on the rear chassis.
Ron
[quote=DEFENDERZOOK]<span style="color:indigo">even better.....a hole drilled about an inch above the pin...
through both the hitch and the receiver.....then a big shackle fitted through that....
the recovery forces will be pulling more evenly on that plate.....
maybe even weld a bit of webbing on the receiver to strengthen it....
after all...toyotas are heavy vehicles.....</span>
Hmm, bend a shackle pin and you'll never get it out. But your idea has merit - especially if the pin is large in diameter. I'll give this serious consideration. I'll need someone else to do the welding. I can spell but I can't weld (I can't see what I'm welding). It was a waste of money buying a 120A WIA MIG welder (I've had it for about 10 years). :cry:
Ron
<span style="color:green">if you bend a shackle pin it will come out with a grinder....
only the ends can bend as that is a solid bar..........
what you really need to be sure about is the strength of the tow bar setup...
and how its mounted to the chassis.....</span>
Yes, too true, Tony.
Noting a lot of LRs have rusty rear cross members.......... 8O
Ron
1. Do I take this to be something that will sit "around" the existing towbar receiver but aligns the recovery pulling centre with the centre bolts of the receiver mount - if you understand my drift.Quote:
Originally posted by p38arover+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(p38arover)</div><div class='quotemain'>
They were my thoughts as well. I'm not quite sure what you mean in your original proposal of this:
<!--QuoteBegin-JDNSW
I would be inclined to make up an attachment consisting of a pair of 10mm plates each with two holes, one for the pin, and the other with a 20mm bolt through it clamping a suitable length of heavy wall pipe the same length as the OD of the square tube.
However, re.....
2. .... I assume you mean JATE rings http://www.landroverstuff.com/jaterings.htmQuote:
Originally posted by JDNSW
The "correct" rear recovery points, from my reading are similar gadgets replacing the two tie down points on the rear chassis.
Ron[/b][/quote]
1. Yes much the same as a jate ring, but designed to fit the tow bar receiver.
2. Yes - did not want to add to confusion by using names that people may not have known. The advantage of jate rings is that there are two of them, so you can use a bridle and share the load, and they are attached to the chassis rails themselves, with the bolts in shear which is stronger, and the chassis rail in tension rather than the crossmember in bending, again stronger.
The advantage of the tow bar attachment is that you don't have to crawl underneath - which may be very close to the ground/water especially if you are the one bogged, and unless the crossmember is rusty the tow bar setup should be plenty strong enough, although you may want to make sure the bolts are HT and in good shape - not with the nuts on the inside rusted nearly away.
John
Can anybody tell me if you put a anti-crush thing into the chassis rail when you put a jate ring on and how it happens?
Or, of course, for any recovery thing that goes through the chassis. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Cheers
Simon
[quote=JDNSW]2. Yes - did not want to add to confusion by using names that people may not have known. The advantage of jate rings is that there are two of them, so you can use a bridle and share the load, and they are attached to the chassis rails themselves, [size=14]<span style="color:red">with the bolts in shear which is stronger</span>
Don't wish to be pedantic here, but I believe it's worth correction .....
M16 Grade 8.8 bolts - Allowable tensile capacity 5700 kg. Allowable shear (threads included in shear plane) 2900 kg, (threads excluded) 4000 kg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Cheers
Rosco