tdi get up and.....go?

this am on the way to work on a dead flat bit of the hume freeway it wound out to 130 with a bit more to go.. so 2 things maybe going on here-cooler air, and smoother road. My car is noticabley affected by hot/dry weather.

Just to be claer-I dont want to drive fast but I do want drivability and some capacity to hold speed up hills. I'm pretty confident that my sluggy performance can be rectified by-less aggressive tyre pattern/smaller tyres(not going to go smaller tho) and an injector tweak of moderate proportions. I just have to find someone who can do it, and the time.

Is there any disco tdi people on the forum from north east vic or sout east NSW-who do you use?

Cheers Lindsay

you could try romsey landrover 5429 5021
I know Ray (the owner) tweeks injector pumps
Romsey would only be what 1 1/2 hrs from wang?
Jase

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Originally posted by Lindsay+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lindsay)</div><div class='quotemain'>
why is my speedo registering correct with 31's on? This would mean discos would be over registering with std tyres on by about 5% I think.
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My stock 97 v8 Disco reads around 6-7% over on standard tyres according to the speed read-outs on the highway near Ballarat.
I don't know how accurate they are, but my wife's 00 Td5 Disco reads spot on thru them.

<!--QuoteBegin-sclarke

Jase,
Be aware some may see your posts as spam or unwanted plugging.[/quote]
That's a bit harsh isn't it, considering the amount of free advice he gave with his post?

Cheers, Ian

Lindsay,

Can I suggest that you have a couple of days holiday in Melbourne. Book your car into AG diesel in Clayton.

When I had them tune my disco about 5 years ago I just said give it as much go as you can. According to the dyno after the tune it had about 30% more power. This sounds a lot but it olny went from 50 to 65hp at the wheels.
They also said that the snorkel and finer filter were robbing power at higher speeds, so the finer filter is long gone.
The car still works in safe EGT range, as about 650c is the max i've seen on my gauge.

It cost about $600 at the time (including injector work) so the $800 denco said seems right.

On another note, is the auto doing what it should and locking up at higher speeds ??

HTH

HI John
thanks for that-2 things-1 Denco tells me that they cant dyno an automatic, can anyone?
2 yep, the box locks up in top.

Sounds like you got a good result for a good price-did they fit the EGT gauge as well? What EGT is too high? I use a paper air filter element so hoping that this is not a restricting factor?


And Jase
thanks for that contact in Romsey I will give him a ring.


Lindsay

Quote:

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Originally posted by sclarke
"igould

Quote:

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Originally posted by sclarke

Jase,
Be aware some may see your posts as spam or unwanted plugging.

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That's a bit harsh isn't it, considering the amount of free advice he gave with his post?

Cheers, Ian

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I wasn't having a go, i was just reminding Jase that some look at advertising as Spaming. Personaly i dont, i liked his report, but after seeing the same write up on another post i thought someone might pull him up on it.

Jase Go for it, i respect the fact you do your research and you have the funds to be an importer. i was not going you i was stating what i saw as a repeat of post, which some have been asked to remove in the past due to spam laws.
I'f i'm wrong then shoot me down. i'll admit defeat if i'm ever wrong... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

If you want a real performance boost, try LPG fumigation.

See http://www.dieselgas.com.au/vehicles.htm for the performance curves for a 300Tdi Defender.

Ron

My '97 tdi is always good for around 150, and gets there quite quickly enough.
I have done some "tweaking", mainly looking for better sustained speed on hills.
But I have found the engine to be very responsive to injection pump timing. They are set at nominally TDC, but mine starts easier and pulls better with a 3deg. advance on the pump.
I think it would be worth checking the timing to be sure at least it is not retarded which would inhibit speed.
sheff

Hi Sheff
do you have any info on how to do this-are there any risks?

ta
Lindsay

Lindsay. The procedure for checking injection pump timing is as follows.

Turn crankshaft (using spanner on front stud) to TDC firing stroke no.1 cyl. This is achieved by centralizing the small 3/16" slot in the flywheel viewed through the bellhousing drain plug. ( a 3/16" drill through a 3/8" brass plug makes this accurate)

Remove A/C belt and tensioner pulley bracket (3 studs) The injection pump drive sprocket can be seen with 3 10mm. (socket size) mounting studs. A large slot at about 10 o'clock has a hole in which a 3/8" dia. rod will fit. This should slip in (about 30mm) quite easily. If not, the crankshaft should be moved slightly either way until it does. (dont loosen the 3 studs). When the rod is inserted, this is the start of injection.

If TDC and injection point (rod in pump) align, this is factory setting. To adjust, the three studs in the pump sprocket are loosened (leaving rod in hole, most important) and the crankshaft turned anti clock (from the front) to advance and clock wise to retard. Tighten the 3 studs before removing the 3/8"rod from the pump.

If the pump is retarded, you will see it in this procedure. *It can be retarded if the timing belt is replaced and the timing not checked after.*

I moved the crankshaft (anti clock) about 3/4" at the flywheel slot to give the est. 3deg. advance.

Note. Dont forget to remove locating pins/rods before re assembly. Any adjustments to be carried out at your own risk. It has worked well for me, but I cant be responsible for others.

Hope she starts to fly soon! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
sheff