Thread: Engine/transmission conversion in QLD

Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5

Am I better off tuning down the engine so it falls below the 20% power increase?

I don't think they 'test' the engine power but rely on factory figures.

Colin

I did a 200tdi/R380/LT230 conversion. They didn't dyno it or anything like that, so must have just looked at factory specs (if they even bothered, I have a feeling they used the seat of their pants and right boot) I just had the engineering done and got it all plated up, cost me.... ummm..... $250 or was it $250 per plate... (2 engineering codes/assessment thingos because engine AND gearbox)

At the end of the day, you're going to spend $$$ on the conversion - I'd be guessing up to $5000 all said and done? So whats another $500. You'll enjoy the extra power.

Originally Posted by debruiser

I did a 200tdi/R380/LT230 conversion. They didn't dyno it or anything like that, so must have just looked at factory specs (if they even bothered, I have a feeling they used the seat of their pants and right boot) I just had the engineering done and got it all plated up, cost me.... ummm..... $250 or was it $250 per plate... (2 engineering codes/assessment thingos because engine AND gearbox)

At the end of the day, you're going to spend $$$ on the conversion - I'd be guessing up to $5000 all said and done? So whats another $500. You'll enjoy the extra power.

Definitely not spending that sort of money on the conversion side of things (probably will on other parts of the car though &#128527, already have the engine and gearbox, do all my own fab work, machining and welding. So really just material costs and time. Engineering is probably going to be the major cost. But if it’s only $250 per code that is a lot cheaper then I expected. I’m guessing it will be 3 codes, engine substitution, turbocharging and gearbox. Or would the turbocharging fall under the engine code because it was a component of the engine be swapped into the vehicle?

Cheers
Paul

If the engine came with a turbo then it's just an engine swap. Well that's how mine was done anyway.

Yeah, I ended up spending way too much on mine..... was supposed to be 200tdi on series box, but my box died before I could get out the driveway. So the $2000 engine, blew a turbo testing so add $1400 for a new turbo, then gearbox died! So I decided to go all out and put in a recon R380/LT230 with part time 4x4, stumpy bellhousing, and get all the gearing up to spec as well at the same time, welcome to the $6000 gearbox! + engineering. Then decided I wanted disc brakes so disco axles and parabolics and and and and and and and...... should have just bought a defender.

Originally Posted by debruiser

Then decided I wanted disc brakes so disco axles and parabolics and and and and and and and...... .

Debruiser, what was involved in the disco axles swap. Did you just clean off the coil mounts and bits suited to the D1 and weld on bits suited to the parabolics or more involved than that? I assume that the brake booster and lines will come over from the donor. Is there much work in the steering assembly? I have aspirations of series 3 with running gear from a D1 TDI including axles but retaining the springs. A perfect runabout for going to the beach. More class than a wrangler.

Originally Posted by MLD

Debruiser, what was involved in the disco axles swap. Did you just clean off the coil mounts and bits suited to the D1 and weld on bits suited to the parabolics or more involved than that? I assume that the brake booster and lines will come over from the donor. Is there much work in the steering assembly? I have aspirations of series 3 with running gear from a D1 TDI including axles but retaining the springs. A perfect runabout for going to the beach. More class than a wrangler.

Also interested 😁

If you have the whole D1 steps I'd take:
a)remove body from both vehicles
b) weld bits to the D1 chassis
c) bolt series body to D1 chassis
d) sell whatever isn't used.

If you only have axles (this is what I did - if I had my time again I'd just buy the whole D1 as per above):
a) remove 6+kgs of excess brackets and faff from each coil axle
b) purchase leaf spring mounts from YMR or something like that from Sth Africa? I think.
c) weld on mounts to axle. (sounds easy but remember you have to get the pinion angles correct plus the left right alignment. rear isn't too bad but the front you have to try to keep your castor correct while still keeping the pinion angles tolerable)
d) paint
e) install

I had already put V8 or 6Cyl dual line brake system into my 88" before this so that already had the same master as the early defender 90's with discs.

Also to watch out for - the front axle on a D1 has the track rod running behind the axle tube and under the pinion like a defender. So when you throw leafs at it and run them spring under then the track rod can and will want to occupy the same space! I used the YMR brackets and I'm pretty sure they had made them to dodge this issue. But you gotta watch out for it.

I also installed a P38 power steering box (with disco P/S pump etc) so my drag link needed to be custom length. I have a brand new custom HD drag link from APT laying in my shed that hasn't been installed because I've deregistered the series and no longer require it. (shameless plug - if you need parts contact me - I need to sell bits off the 88" or the whole thing!)

Remember that these things are HEAVY and a PIA to move around/position/align/move/lift/drop on your foot.

Mind you when you throw some good paras on at it with some longer shocks she will flex pretty good! It actually matched my stock puma 90! yes they are 33's. I have +2" patrol shocks on the rear in a v from an extra crossmember I added.

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Footnote:

I found the front paras to tramp like mad offroad, so if your doing this I'd advise some sort of anti-tram bar/system.