you'll need to do a visual on the crank and plastigauge the worst of them to make sure they are serviceable i would think...Quote:
Originally Posted by 86mud
mine were within a thou after 460000 odd klms
you'll need to do a visual on the crank and plastigauge the worst of them to make sure they are serviceable i would think...Quote:
Originally Posted by 86mud
mine were within a thou after 460000 odd klms
Not sure now Weeds....Depends on condition of the crank - a little bit concerned right now..
Hopefully you luck is better than mine......should get ours back next Thursday after a failure to proceedQuote:
Originally Posted by 86mud
That's what mine did.
The journals were ok, one just needed a light linish with some 1200, clearances were all ok.
The late '98's had a bad batch of big ends, they delaminate like that.
Most were unlucky and they did cranks, or worse.
The late '98's had a bad batch of big ends, they delaminate like that.
Most were unlucky and they did cranks, or worse.[/QUOTE]
I heard about the bad batch[Justinc post] and changed mine 300TDI Big Ends
I have a spare motor here if you need to get it on the road while you sort yours out.
Does anyone know what engine number ranges were affected?
Hope the damage is not too bad.
I think you, Keith and I should start a SEQ tdi engine rebuild Facebook/Instagram group. Kelvin can be an honorary member as I think he previously work on his old 300tdi. [emoji1]
Not a bad idea. I have learnt so much about this engine over the past 9 years of ownership, and I am getting more confident about working on it.
So last night I pulled the big end bearing shells...I was nervous expecting a badly scored crank...but the gods were with me. I am very lucky. The crank is not marked/scored! The shells were cactus - two shells had de-laminated . I'll get some pictures up tonight.
Next question - can I remove a main bearing cap and inspect the main bearing shells and crank surface while I am there? Obviously only removing one at a time.
Then my next job....damn injection pump is dripping at the seal for the rear housing. Surfing the internet tells me that replacing the large o'ring is possible with pump insitu, but requires very delicate hands.
Thanks
It would be no problem to check the main bearings, but not the rear cap.
As for the pump head seal, I have the correct length bolts here that I bought as a kit. They will only allow the head to push back the correct distance to change the seal. Too far and its dead. I personally would remove the pump due to access and it needs to be cleaned thoroughly before opening it up.