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Thread: DB-140 Battery Isolator by Sidewinder - what's peoples Thoughts?

  1. #1
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    Question DB-140 Battery Isolator by Sidewinder - what's peoples Thoughts?

    Guys,

    I've recently redone the Dual Battery System on the Puma that I bought earlier this year. The previous system was a Piranha system which to me was rubbish. Didn't like the way the Piranha system worked so I thought I would go the same system that I have in my old Defender... that is a simple Dual VSR Relay which also has a switch wire that can be used to parallel the 2 batteries via a switch. I've been very happy with the way this one worked but I couldn't find another one of these and instead, I've bought a Sidewinder DB-140 that works in a similar way but with one BIG difference... The VOLTAGE when the 2 batteries separate when the engine is turned off is 12.4volts. To me, this 12.4v before battery separation is far too low....

    Wondering if there are others out there that have or do use this Sidewinder DB-140 and what are your thoughts? 12.4v means that both batteries are down to about 80% capacity before battery separation..... too low??

    Sidewinder's Dual Battery Isolator (Dbi-140R)

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    It’s higher than what traxide disconnects at.....


    My redarc disconnects pretty much straight away when fridge is running....I prefer my starter to be at max. volts

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    I have had an earlier DB120 for about 5 years now, and it works well.
    However I have become a bit concerned about the drain on battery 1 ( Optima Blue top) , as it seems to get under 12.4 in three days. The rate of loss then seems to reduce.
    It may be something else entirely , but it seems that the energizing current for the relay is taking a bit of current.

    I am thinking of getting a GSL which cuts at 12.7 volts which would mean no energizing current under 12.7 volts.
    Regards Philip A

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    That GSL actually looks interesting. I haven’t heard of them before but they come with a 2 yr warranty

    http://www.gsl.com.au/tl_files/pdf-a...bi-100a-12.pdf

    From what I can tell you can add a momentary switch to it for emergency starting, so no extra infrastructure is needed. Plus only $75 or so

    Only thing I’d like to know is - is a 100 amp VSR big enough? Other brands give the option of 120, 140 or 160 amp
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    Re: joining the batteries for emergency start, the redarc has this function I didn’t wiring it up as I don’t recall needing the function when touring......and if it happens to happen one day it’s a pretty simple job to move the + cable from one side of the switch to the other.

    Re: joining the batteries to charge/top up the start when camping with solar attached to aux.......I just start the car for 5sec and shut down when the relay pulls in, batteries stay connected a day well providing the sun stays out.

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    That GSL actually looks interesting. I haven’t heard of them before but they come with a 2 yr warranty
    BTW , I also have the Sidewinder in cabin monitor , which enables you to know the level of each battery, and to connect both.
    It also has an LED which shows at a glance when the batteries are connected. This LED is on all the time down to 12.4 volts so also may be a source of a little battery drain.

    One thing about GSL is that you can call their tech help line. I have a GSL MPPT regulator for my solar panel and I rang a tech about what the maximum panel output could be for the 12 amp limit. He gave me good info that 150watts is the max as when a battery is down to say 12 volts the amps will be pushing the limit.

    I looked at the GSL tech specs and there is something wrong with either the description or the wiring diagram, and why the switch has to be momentary. AFAIR the diagram shows the battery connection to be to the primary battery and the description to the secondary battery or vice versa.
    I would like to use my existing in cabin monitor with the GSL, and I think the led would work instead of their supplied LED and I would be able to monitor both batteries as this is just a switched take off from the cables. The question is about connecting both.

    Regards Philip A

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I have had an earlier DB120 for about 5 years now, and it works well.
    However I have become a bit concerned about the drain on battery 1 ( Optima Blue top) , as it seems to get under 12.4 in three days. The rate of loss then seems to reduce.
    It may be something else entirely , but it seems that the energizing current for the relay is taking a bit of current.

    I am thinking of getting a GSL which cuts at 12.7 volts which would mean no energizing current under 12.7 volts.
    Regards Philip A
    And this is also what I'm concerned about too as it drains both batteries down to this 12.4 before disconnecting. My Puma sometimes sits there for a week or 2 at a time before being started & I'd rather have them disconnect at a higher voltage and thus help prevent any sulphation related issues. The setup on my older one works really well and never had any of these sort of concerns....

    So will be watching to see how this goes and if I get annoyed, will look at trying to find something similar to what I have in my old defender

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    And this is also what I'm concerned about too as it drains both batteries down to this 12.4 before disconnecting. My Puma sometimes sits there for a week or 2 at a time before being started & I'd rather have them disconnect at a higher voltage and thus help prevent any sulphation related issues. The setup on my older one works really well and never had any of these sort of concerns....

    So will be watching to see how this goes and if I get annoyed, will look at trying to find something similar to what I have in my old defender
    If it doesn’t work out than a basic redarc does all your asking for. I have one fitted to my defer and three fitted to work cars. No issue to date and they isolate st 12.7v

    Next time round I will go the ‘D’ as I believe it will reverse charge from the aux when solar is connected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    If it doesn’t work out than a basic redarc does all your asking for. I have one fitted to my defer and three fitted to work cars. No issue to date and they isolate st 12.7v

    Next time round I will go the ‘D’ as I believe it will reverse charge from the aux when solar is connected.
    I thought they cut out at 12.4? That’s pretty much why I stopped looking at them. Might b wrong tho
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    I thought they cut out at 12.4? That’s pretty much why I stopped looking at them. Might b wrong tho
    Just checked the Website says 12.7, might be a recent change although mine goes clunk within a few minutes of pulling up probably when the fridge cycles on.

    Given there seems to be a few members who prefer their starter to stay as fully charged as possible I wondering if traxide would do a unit with a higher cut out.

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