Why does it need welding? off centre?
AM
Well the heading says it all.
Trying to remove a broken exhaust stud and the drill bit 'bit' and into the water jacket it goes!
How successful is welding a stud hole and re drilling/tapping?
Can it be done in situ?
Bugger!
Cheers
RJ
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Why does it need welding? off centre?
AM
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Drill, tap, screw in grub screw with Loctite. And then you exh stud on top
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Been here..
Carefully and ensuring the drill is central...
drill in the smallest nominal size you can and cut the thread for the finest grub screw you can get in there. measure and wind in the grub screw to the same depth as the bottom of the next stud hole ensuring that at least 3 preferably 5 turns of thread engage and use loctite 680 or similar high strength high temp mounting grade goop.
let it set up.. if you need to conduct thread repair for the stud hole procede as per normal but
drop a ball bearing into the hole (make sure you have a magnet to get it out with)
drill for your thread repair (if needed)
repair the thread
remove the ball bearing
the ball bearing stops you drilling into the grub screw. you'll know when you hit it.
I got lucky with the one I got called to. the owner had only hit with the 1/8th bit and not a larger one.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Hi, yes and no. Each has a place.
I think I just got that once in a while ratbag stud!
The lower stud came out easy with a 3.5mm reverse helix. Simples.
The upper, wouldn't budge at 3.5 reverse helix, or easy-out.
Nor at 4.5mm reverse helix or easy-out!
Was taking it out to 5mm to get stern with a 6mm easyout (borrowed kit did not have a 6mm reverse helix).
At this stage the remaining stud is still in there but hopefully, taking it out to 6.8 will allow either bigger helix or easy to budge it.
Failing that maybe the taper tap will move it or thread over it.
I've done a few over my time and almost all eventually yield for the greater good. This is that one I reckon!
Worst, worst case will be over size thread and heli-coil back or over size stud and grub screw.
Botheration!
Ralph
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Far out so many eggsperts. Just seal the new stud when u screw it in. Job done. Use stag or gm headstud sealer or even blue locktite 243.
No need to over think things. Its not the end of the bloody world.
Cheers Rod
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