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Thread: Bother and Poo! TD5 Exhaust Stud - Drilled through the water jacket

  1. #1
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    Bother and Poo! TD5 Exhaust Stud - Drilled through the water jacket

    Well the heading says it all.
    Trying to remove a broken exhaust stud and the drill bit 'bit' and into the water jacket it goes!

    How successful is welding a stud hole and re drilling/tapping?

    Can it be done in situ?

    Bugger!

    Cheers
    RJ
    01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
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    99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
    81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
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  2. #2
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    Why does it need welding? off centre?

    AM

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Why does it need welding? off centre?

    AM
    The threaded stud holes are blind.

    We drilled to deep trying to seat an easy-out and drilled through the water jacket wall.
    Coolant every where.

    Ralph
    01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
    06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
    99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
    81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
    97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now

  4. #4
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    Drill, tap, screw in grub screw with Loctite. And then you exh stud on top

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Drill, tap, screw in grub screw with Loctite. And then you exh stud on top
    Yes, thinking about something similar. Perhaps a using devcon instead of loctite. That said, it's only the water jacket, so not at combustion pressure.

    Cheers
    Ralph
    01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
    06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
    99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
    81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
    97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now

  6. #6
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    Been here..

    Carefully and ensuring the drill is central...

    drill in the smallest nominal size you can and cut the thread for the finest grub screw you can get in there. measure and wind in the grub screw to the same depth as the bottom of the next stud hole ensuring that at least 3 preferably 5 turns of thread engage and use loctite 680 or similar high strength high temp mounting grade goop.


    let it set up.. if you need to conduct thread repair for the stud hole procede as per normal but

    drop a ball bearing into the hole (make sure you have a magnet to get it out with)
    drill for your thread repair (if needed)
    repair the thread
    remove the ball bearing

    the ball bearing stops you drilling into the grub screw. you'll know when you hit it.

    I got lucky with the one I got called to. the owner had only hit with the 1/8th bit and not a larger one.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    The threaded stud holes are blind.

    We drilled to deep trying to seat an easy-out and drilled through the water jacket wall.
    Coolant every where.

    Ralph


    Don't use Ezy-outs. They cause more problems than they fix. Get a transfer punch that is a neat fit in the hole, centre punch the broken stud then use a reverse helix drill to wind the broken bit out anti-clockwise.
    URSUSMAJOR

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Been here..

    Carefully and ensuring the drill is central...

    drill in the smallest nominal size you can and cut the thread for the finest grub screw you can get in there. measure and wind in the grub screw to the same depth as the bottom of the next stud hole ensuring that at least 3 preferably 5 turns of thread engage and use loctite 680 or similar high strength high temp mounting grade goop.


    let it set up.. if you need to conduct thread repair for the stud hole procede as per normal but

    drop a ball bearing into the hole (make sure you have a magnet to get it out with)
    drill for your thread repair (if needed)
    repair the thread
    remove the ball bearing

    the ball bearing stops you drilling into the grub screw. you'll know when you hit it.

    I got lucky with the one I got called to. the owner had only hit with the 1/8th bit and not a larger one.
    Cheers Dave,

    Read Bigbjorns response in conjunction (below) but unfortunately, it's a 5mm hole! So plan is to take it out to 6.8 and re-thread to 8mm 1.25 (same size & pitch as stud).

    Botheration!

    Ralph
    01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
    06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
    99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
    81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
    97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbjorn View Post

    Don't use Ezy-outs. They cause more problems than they fix. Get a transfer punch that is a neat fit in the hole, centre punch the broken stud then use a reverse helix drill to wind the broken bit out anti-clockwise.
    Hi, yes and no. Each has a place.

    I think I just got that once in a while ratbag stud!

    The lower stud came out easy with a 3.5mm reverse helix. Simples.

    The upper, wouldn't budge at 3.5 reverse helix, or easy-out.
    Nor at 4.5mm reverse helix or easy-out!

    Was taking it out to 5mm to get stern with a 6mm easyout (borrowed kit did not have a 6mm reverse helix).
    At this stage the remaining stud is still in there but hopefully, taking it out to 6.8 will allow either bigger helix or easy to budge it.

    Failing that maybe the taper tap will move it or thread over it.

    I've done a few over my time and almost all eventually yield for the greater good. This is that one I reckon!

    Worst, worst case will be over size thread and heli-coil back or over size stud and grub screw.
    Botheration!

    Ralph
    01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
    06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
    99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
    81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
    97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now

  10. #10
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    Far out so many eggsperts. Just seal the new stud when u screw it in. Job done. Use stag or gm headstud sealer or even blue locktite 243.

    No need to over think things. Its not the end of the bloody world.

    Cheers Rod

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