TECHNICAL FOOD FOR THOUGHT

This reads to me like a primary school science project or a ****-take (can I write that?)

I truly hope no-one has actually taken this seriously?

Cheers
Patrol 32

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Originally Posted by Patrick M

Hi Blokes,
I was visiting a facebook site just recently and came across a wonderful informative piece of technical data that a lot of us may not be up to speed with as yet.
I will relay the information as stated, in the thread that I have just read, it goes something like this:-

Revving the engine to redline makes the pistons go all the way to the top of the engine where if you drive normally they don't wear out the top bit of the bore.
If you drive normally the pistons only go up and down a bit, not all the way, hence no wear on your block.
Since you do most of your driving in the 1500-3000rpm range, it pays to be careful and get that bit working good first up.[bighmmm] blah blah blah,
This astounding article was placed on the WA DISCOVERY DEFENDER 4X4 FACEBOOK after being picked up off a Toyota forum or facebook page, it was titled "MUST BE A TOYOTA THING".
I think (or hope) that something got lost in the typing of the thread.
So remember to keep those revs up to redline on start up, you don't want uneven wear in your bore, do you?
Very amusing but scary ehy.

Regards:-
Patrick M

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Patrol 32

This reads to me like a primary school science project or a ****-take (can I write that?)

I truly hope no-one has actually taken this seriously?

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As already mentioned a couple of times I think it's the wording that's the issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Patrick M

Revving the engine to redline makes the pistons go all the way to the top of the engine where if you drive normally they don't wear out the top bit of the bore. Correct, as discussed throughout this thread
If you drive normally the pistons only go up and down a bit, not all the way, hence no wear on your block. Badly worded, you don't get as much piston travel at lower revs so there is a few thou top & bottom of the swept area that only gets worn at higher revs.
Since you do most of your driving in the 1500-3000rpm range, it pays to be careful and get that bit working good first up.[bighmmm] blah blah blah, Hmmmmm max revs with a cold motor ? I think the poster meant use the full rev range.

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Colin

Colin my apologies, I was having one of those "this is very simplistic" days.

I agree the wording is the issue, I must admit I always like to read the "and why it is so" level of detail.

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Originally Posted by gromit

As already mentioned a couple of times I think it's the wording that's the issue.


Colin

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also jet fuel can melt steel beams, if you didnt know.

I reckon it's horses for courses. I've had a few old Holden 202's that didn't respond too well to being revved hard. Most died from electrical failure, namely either the alternator or the dizzy getting punched by a conrod.

I had a pretty warm 202 in an LC GTR that I would buzz off the clock in a few gears as a party trick. "Why'd you put a 202 in it. Should have done a 186. 202s won't rev, etc."... Come with me and let me show you something. Tacho went to 6.5. Engine happily exceeded that with the head, cam and triples feeding it. But that had ACL Duralites in it and was fully balanced. Otherwise stock bottom end (including rods). Great motor. Maybe I was just young and lucky...
However revving a bone stock 202 with asthmatic breathing would result in piston crowns flying off due to the unbalanced forces and greater piston speed compared with the smaller engines. Electrical failure and sump ventillation often followed...