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Thread: 300tdi Defender. replace clutch master and slave. Required tools

  1. #1
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    300tdi Defender. replace clutch master and slave. Required tools

    G'day all, I need replace the above bits as the clutch pedal occasionally slips down, but recovers on the next push. I haven't done this job before, but have both cylinders and also a new hose. I've ordered brake spanners, 7 Pcs Trade Grade Flare Nut Spanners Set Brake Hydraulic Line Wrench 6mm - 22mm | eBay but do I need anything else?
    Don.

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    Makes life easier



    AM
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    3/8th drive socket set and C spanners, you can get away with slim neck R/OE and double offset R/R

    its all metric.

    a brake bleed bottle will make it easier.

    Invest in a claw spanner to suit your flare nuts on the vehicle in 3/8s.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  4. #4
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    On my 1998 300Tdi 130, the air con line goes over the master cylinder and makes it difficult to replace the master cylinder. So be patient otherwise knuckle skin will be lost. Having the bonnet fully open against the windscreen is the only way to go.
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Makes life easier



    AM
    AM, I take it, those bolts are the M/C mounting bolts. Does that mean the replacement can be done without removing the pedal box?
    Don.

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    Don The MC bolts were bolted to the old MC for correct spacing a piece of rod with a 90 deg bend cut to length and tacked on.No removal of pedal box .Only neg is your swear jar missing out . A magnet on a stick always handy

    Noel

  7. #7
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    Hook up and bleed the slave by gravity while hanging on the flex line before putting into the bellhousing.

    Be careful taking out the slave to not pull the rods off of the clutch fork.

    Replace the slave flex hose.

    Use only OE branded slave and master.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Don The MC bolts were bolted to the old MC for correct spacing a piece of rod with a 90 deg bend cut to length and tacked on.No removal of pedal box .Only neg is your swear jar missing out . A magnet on a stick always handy

    Noel
    Thanks Noel, That looks like a nifty trick. I'll do it
    Regards
    Don.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
    Hook up and bleed the slave by gravity while hanging on the flex line before putting into the bellhousing.

    Be careful taking out the slave to not pull the rods off of the clutch fork.

    Replace the slave flex hose.

    Use only OE branded slave and master.
    Thanks Red90, I got this stuff .........IMG_6342.jpg
    Don.

  10. #10
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    Probably a bit late now but.....
    I fitted a master cylinder that had already been stainless steel sleeved. A local supplier buys in the cheap trailer master cylinders and immediately sends them away for the stainless liner to be fitted.

    I've done mine single handed without removing the pedal box, the earlier picture of the nuts welded to the curved bar would have saved time & a few choice words but I eventually managed without.

    A local Land Rover mechanic told me some years back :-
    On a Series, remove the pedal box to do the job.
    On a Defender do it in situ because of the sound deadening etc. making the removal of the pedal box a PITA.

    Best of luck with the job.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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