Cracked LT230 Chassis Mount – Welding Advice Needed

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 25th February 2019, 05:20 PM

After cleaning the underside of my son's recently acquired Defender 90 TD5, we discovered that the driver's side LT230 transfer case chassis mount has a couple of fractures in it. The following images are rear view and underside of the chassis rail mount respectively. Is this a common problem and if so what is the collective wisdom on the best fix?

LT230_Chassis_Mount_-_Rear_View.jpg LT230_Chassis_Mount_-_Underside.jpg

We are planning to drop the transmission, replace the clutch, overhaul the transfer case and maybe stem a few oil leaks (wow that is easy to say

). While it is accessible, I want to repair the cracked chassis mount as well.

May be I am way off the mark here but I am hesitant to cut and replace the mount as I don't want to introduce welding stresses in the chassis itself. My thought then is to realign the mid-section of the mount that is sagging between the fractures, drill a 3mm hole at the root of the fracture to arrest growth and grind a "v" along the fracture path so it can be welded up and ground flat. As I assume it can't be normalised, some sort of reinforcement will be needed. My thoughts here are to weld all around a 3mm thick:

Option 1) mild steel plate in the shape of a "D" to cover the underside of the chassis mount such that the straight edge aligns to the outer edge of the mount and the curved edge points to the chassis rail or

Option 2) mild steel flat bar 2/3rds the width of the chassis mount, aligned with the outer edge of the mount, wrapped around and continued up both sides, tapering off on the vertical faces or
Option 3) ?????

I am probably over thinking this but I am concerned that Option 1) could introduce new fracture initiation points at the corners of the "D" plate and Option 2) may be tricky to fit and weld neatly. Further concerns are avoiding corrosion between the mount and the reinforcement and keeping the base of the chassis mount flat if welded all the way around.

I have searched the forum and after having read The Good Oil...Welding vehicles, I plan to disconnect the battery and ECU before welding and ensure the welding ground is placed close to the repair, on bare metal. The repair is about a metre away from the fuel tank which is ¼ full and it is a diesel so should the tank be drained? Are there any other precautions that should be taken? What type of welding system would be appropriate – Stick, MIG, TIG,….FIG???

As I am no welding guru you're thoughts, comments and advice would be greatly appreciated. I can't weld to save my life so any suggestions as to who would be competent to do this in the Perth area would also be welcome. As the vehicle will be hard to move with all its bits on the ground, I think a mobile service is needed, if that is possible. Thanks in advance.

**Lemo** · 26th February 2019, 03:42 PM

I’d cut the whole bracket off and replace with a new one, it was welded on in the first place so welding stress shouldn’t be a concern. Second, get a mobile welder to come do it, job done

Cracked LT230 Chassis Mount – Welding Advice Needed

**weeds** · 26th February 2019, 03:46 PM

Agree with Lemo...best repair would be a new one.....

Second best would be drill a hole at the end of the crack, prep altar crack, than lay a weld over it......I can weld OK but am hopeless at overhead.

**MLD** · 26th February 2019, 06:57 PM

if you go new mounts i sourced mounts from Richards Chassis in the UK. I paid GBP100 for both engine and transfer mounts (+ GBP40 in postage).

**Blknight.aus** · 26th February 2019, 07:04 PM

Drill at the root, V it, weld it, Easy.

if you cant do overhand, hire in a guy or take it to a weld shop, 90% of exhaust places will also be able to hit that.

Dont grind it flat but while its there Add in a pair of T pieces that run along the lip and extend towards the chassis either side of the nut.

optional to tack it onto the chassis at the bottom but if you do just stay clear of the curve in the chassis.

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 27th February 2019, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by MLD

if you go new mounts i sourced mounts from Richards Chassis in the UK. I paid GBP100 for both engine and transfer mounts (+ GBP40 in postage).

I rang Richards Chassis in the UK and asked if they sell the transfer case mounting bracket as a separate item as it was not listed on their website. Unfortunately they only do whole chassis now as well as the bolted on cross members. I have also checked all the usual suppliers and Bearmach or Britparts can supply virtually every chassis component….except the transfer case bracket

I could fab a bracket but without a press-brake it would be difficult to get the radius bends and there is a fiddly lip on the outer edge that locates the transfer case rubber mount.

Originally Posted by Lemo

I’d cut the whole bracket off and replace with a new one, it was welded on in the first place so welding stress shouldn’t be a concern. Second, get a mobile welder to come do it, job done

Originally Posted by weeds

Agree with Lemo...best repair would be a new one.....

My initial hesitation to weld directly on the chassis stemmed from my belief that the original chassis frames were welded up and then the whole frame normalised but that may be an urban myth perpetuated by wishful Land Rover owners....

. Also there is a wiring loom running inside the chassis rail next to the transfer case mounting bracket and plastic fuel lines just above it. I am not so keen on removing this old infrastructure and potentially creating new problems. By just repairing the bracket, I should be able to shield them adequately.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Drill at the root, V it, weld it, Easy.

if you cant do overhand, hire in a guy or take it to a weld shop, 90% of exhaust places will also be able to hit that.

Dont grind it flat but while its there Add in a pair of T pieces that run along the lip and extend towards the chassis either side of the nut.

optional to tack it onto the chassis at the bottom but if you do just stay clear of the curve in the chassis.

So my plan is to repair as discussed, drill-grind-weld, and reinforce as suggested by Blknight - an upstand along the outer edge with two tapered braces back to the rail thereby avoiding the rail bottom curve.

Thanks again everyone for your advice. It is reassuring to get input from experienced players. When the job is done I will post a pic but might be a little while – my cup runneth over with jobs to do

.

**Blknight.aus** · 27th February 2019, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by weeds

Agree with Lemo...best repair would be a new one.....

Second best would be drill a hole at the end of the crack, prep altar crack, than lay a weld over it......I can weld OK but am hopeless at overhead.

with where those cracks are you might be able to get them from the top down if you unbolted the tcase mount.

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 28th February 2019, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by MLD

if you go new mounts i sourced mounts from Richards Chassis in the UK. I paid GBP100 for both engine and transfer mounts (+ GBP40 in postage).

I rang Richards Chassis in the UK and asked if they sell the transfer case mounting bracket as a separate item as it was not listed on their website. Unfortunately they only do whole chassis now as well as the bolted on cross members. I have also checked all the usual suppliers and Bearmach or Britparts can supply virtually every chassis component…...except the transfer case bracket

.

I could fab a bracket but without a press-brake it would be difficult to get the radius bends and there is a fiddly lip on the outer edge that locates the transfer case rubber mount.

Originally Posted by Lemo

I’d cut the whole bracket off and replace with a new one, it was welded on in the first place so welding stress shouldn’t be a concern. Second, get a mobile welder to come do it, job done

Originally Posted by weeds

Agree with Lemo...best repair would be a new one.....

Second best would be drill a hole at the end of the crack, prep altar crack, than lay a weld over it......I can weld OK but am hopeless at overhead.

My initial hesitation to weld directly on the chassis stemmed from my belief that the original chassis frames were welded up and then the whole frame normalised but that may be an urban myth perpetuated by wishful Land Rover owners.....

. Also there is a wiring loom running inside the chassis rail next to the transfer case mounting bracket and plastic fuel lines just above it. I am not so keen on removing this old infrastructure and potentially creating new problems. By just repairing the bracket, I should be able to shield them adequately.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Drill at the root, V it, weld it, Easy.

if you cant do overhand, hire in a guy or take it to a weld shop, 90% of exhaust places will also be able to hit that.

Dont grind it flat but while its there Add in a pair of T pieces that run along the lip and extend towards the chassis either side of the nut.

optional to tack it onto the chassis at the bottom but if you do just stay clear of the curve in the chassis.

So my plan is to repair as discussed, drill-grind-weld, and reinforce as suggested by Blknight - an upstand along the outer edge with two tapered braces back to the rail thereby avoiding the rail bottom curve.
Thanks again everyone for your advice. It is reassuring to get input from experienced players. When the job is done I will post a pic but might be a little while – my cup runneth over with jobs to do.

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 28th February 2019, 04:57 PM

This is a test reply as I have tried three times with more detailed reply but not showing up. Once again, thanks for your advice everyone.

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 28th February 2019, 05:16 PM

Ok my previous reply worked. Please bear with me while I figure out what I have been doing wrong over the last few days and apologies for the piece-meal responses.

Originally Posted by MLD

if you go new mounts i sourced mounts from Richards Chassis in the UK. I paid GBP100 for both engine and transfer mounts (+ GBP40 in postage).

I rang Richards Chassis in the UK and asked if they sell the transfer case mounting bracket as a separate item as it was not listed on their website. Unfortunately they only do whole chassis now as well as bolted on cross members. I have also checked all the usual suppliers and Bearmach or Britparts can supply virtually every chassis component......except the transfer case mounting bracket

.

I could fab a bracket but without a press-brake it would be quite difficult to get the radius bends and there is a fiddly lip on the outer edge that locates the transfer case rubber mount.

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