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Two common problems with this heater - thermostat not performing properly (even a few degrees too low opening makes a big difference) and air getting round the core without being heated. It may need pulling to bits and renewing the sealing round the the core and on the flap that diverts air through or around the core. Also it may be adjustment of the heat on/off flap - on mine I have found it necessary to add a spring, but from memory this was to try and stop the hot air rather than the cold air, but same principle applies, the flap not moving full travel, due to stiffness in the cable. Cable probably really needs replacing so it moves freely.
John
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once bought an old ford and drove from Bundaberg to Wangaratta non stop in July-froze my tits off as the heater didnt work. Found out later that It didnt have a thermostat. Worth checking that your thermostat is there, its the right one and is working properly.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DeeJay @ May 15 2006, 10:44 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Ron,
Did you get it to work?
Mine is R/S and probably a valve or something. You mentioned that two valves need to open.?
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I sold it yesterday so I didn't persevere with it. There is a vacuum operated water valve and a flap that need to operate.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DEFENDERZOOK @ May 15 2006, 10:50 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
<span style="color:#3333FF">have you guys tried flushing out the heater matrix to make sure its not full of years of rust and crud....
and possibly mud....?
this may be restricting the coolant flow through it......and hence reducing its efficiency.......</span>
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Yep, did that. Some years ago, I bought a new water valve made by a friend for my Hillman Hunter. It transformed the heating system by allowing a good flow of water.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JDNSW @ May 16 2006, 06:57 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Two common problems with this heater - thermostat not performing properly (even a few degrees too low opening makes a big difference) and air getting round the core without being heated. It may need pulling to bits and renewing the sealing round the the core and on the flap that diverts air through or around the core. Also it may be adjustment of the heat on/off flap - on mine I have found it necessary to add a spring, but from memory this was to try and stop the hot air rather than the cold air, but same principle applies, the flap not moving full travel, due to stiffness in the cable. Cable probably really needs replacing so it moves freely.
John
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What John suggests about air leakage was going to be my next port of call - before getting the air con charged. The thermostat was a goodie - the car didn't have one whe I bought it but I soon added one.
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My heater is great in the morning. Takes forever to get anyheat and then 5 mins with the heater running and the engine is cold again https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Afternoons are ok though. Can't wait for the -8 mornings
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I am a bit late on the scene with this one, and Actually I do not have an answer either, but:
I have two county's 1 With Factory Fitted Air and one without.
Both are 85's 3.9
The Factory Air was crap and it was configured up just to provide heat in the end. I have an isolation valve for the summer months.
The Non Air (With Vents) has fantastic heating. Will probally still fit an isolation valve, however heats a gem once the crate is warmed up.
