Printable View
FWIW.
From Google,Petrol proof glues.Quote:
Petroleum will break down super glue, so you can easily remove it with gasoline. However, a less flammable and less dangerous solution is to use Vaseline to rub the hardened glue off your fingers.Dec 4, 2007
There seem to be plenty there.
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
Tried to post a link to an NGK plug numbers chart, but the site won't let me link it.
Comes up with a search and I found it really handy recently.
DL
Also I have the new ignition (FAST xr3000) running and all is good.
Running 40 thou in the plugs, no probs. Bit of fine tuning to be done but it does make a big difference. [bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf]
Won't run the MSD 5, that I used with points, so I'll offload that. Ideal for points vehicles, drops the voltage to next to nothing across the points so they really last and fires the coil 5 times each bang stroke over 20 degrees.
DL
Hmmm ok all a bit much for a 27hp 2 cylinder engine that runs to a max of 4800 rpm and does not even have vacuum advance on the dizzy - [thumbsupbig]
Garry
Ok I bought 4 NGK BP6HS plugs at a cost of $6 each - two to experiment with and two to go in when all the issues are sorted.
They are 2mm longer than the other plugs but the engine turned over by hand OK. Started the engine first go and ran it in the garage for about 10 minutes and checked the plugs and they were fine with no soot.
Needed fuel so drove down to the garage a fuelled up 27litres for 120km covered - hmm not good but the little car does normally swallow fuel down - normally get about 15l/100km - so an indication of poor running etc. Car ran fine so headed off around the neighbourhood but as previously occurred the further you go performance starts to drop off - starts missing under load.
Now you normally drive these around town at up to 60kph and 3500 - 4500RPM - you only get to lower revs when you idle and from take off - at cruise on the open road I sit on 4000rpm so revs are up there most of the time.
So performance was dropping off and driving back up the hill to home power was right back - can normally do it in 4th but this time was third and wanting 2nd.
I got back home and pulled the plugs. Both exactly the same.
Attachment 153591
So after 10km the plugs are sooty but not wet. Note half the insulator is brown and the other half is black - the other plug is the same. So I assume the sooty side is facing the inlet valve and the brown side is facing the exhaust.
So my take on all this is that my initial assumption is that at at higher revs when under load the mixture is too rich.
I will do the carb and then see what happens.
Garry
[smilebigeye] This thread reminds me of a recently read book by the late Geoffrey Quill a Test pilot for Supermarine in days of yore for the Spitfire. So many variables & false paths to follow.
You think you have troubles Garry. [biggrin]
He got there & so will you.[smilebigeye]
Hi Garry, Losing power as it gets hot, I would be looking at tappet settings. Then ignition system. Paul.
Thanks - is not so much when it gets hot but under load and backing off and reapplying power tends to make things better. Ignition is all new - distributor is less that 5000km old. Runs fine when spark plugs keen and then slowly degrades as the plugs get sooted up.
Cheers
Garry
Is the air cleaner or intake duct blocked perhaps? There must be a place in Canberra capable of checking out a carburettor. As someone previously posted, it might be the float is defective.
