The trick from memory is to use needle nose pliers to pry back the spring that holds the bonnet latch. You need a torch to see what you are doing.
I had to do it on a D1 bonnet...
So, my place is a bit like the Castle - “could you move the Camira? I need to get the Torana out so I can get to the Commodore.”
So, I fired up the Jag in anticipation of using it to go on a Club run tomorrow - all good there, so then I had to move the RRC out the way to get it out. I disconnect the batteries on all the cars so they don’t go flat but when I pulled on the cable to open the bonnet of the RRC - it’s not coming out far enough - the cables been a bit stretched for years but always opened.
Tried the one on the bonnet and one on the cable trick - no good.
Anyone know how to get it open without getting the cordless angle grinder out...?
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
The trick from memory is to use needle nose pliers to pry back the spring that holds the bonnet latch. You need a torch to see what you are doing.
I had to do it on a D1 bonnet...
54 Series 1 86
61 Series 2 109 - Club Rego
76 2 Door Range Rover
78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
22 Defedner 90 - Full rego
Got it. Was quite seized up so I’ll have to sort that, but it’s moved and the Jag was taken for a good drive and top up at the servo. Still runs great even though it dumped half a litre of transmission fluid on the drive over the last few months... The BW35 is not a great box and I’ll replace it at some stage, but a top up and a drive and it seems to be holding everything in at the moment. 👍
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Only the V12’s got a decent trans. The 4.2 6 got a ****ty Borg Warner...
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Well that's news to me.............. not doubting your knowledge.
AFAIKnew the 350 trans made it really easy to put a 6.6 up front because of the Chev bolt pattern.
DL
Yeah, the TH trans and Chev will almost bolt straight in - only engine mounts are different. The tunnel is big enough to swallow a TH400 and this will bolt straight onto the existing cross member. Very easy and common conversion back in the day. The bolt pattern on the 6 is different - I believe the same as the 2wd version of the ZF4HP22 etc that was used in BMW’s, which is the conversation I’ll do at some point.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
The same BW35 in the Rover 3500 that I had for 25 years used to do the same if left standing. The auto trans shop said it is because the torque converter drains back and the ATF level in the sump rises above where the selector shaft enters the gearbox. There is a lip seal there, but replacing did not fix it.
Anyone know how to get it open without getting the cordless angle grinder out...?
You have a Cordless Angle Grinder? What are you, some sort of toff?
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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