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Thread: 300 tdi too hot?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    4511
    Posts
    19,098
    cut the center out of the thermostat and put it back in and try it and that will rule a thermostat out of the equation one way or another imho
    1995 Defender 130 Dualcab Ute

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    953
    What Inc said and test the new thermostat before installing it using a pot of water on a stove to check that it opens at 82deg.
    I too have had a brand new thermostat that didnt work correctly out of the box.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Boonah
    Posts
    224

    Defender too cold

    Dave, 86 mud, Phil b and inc for the win. Just came back from a long run. Peak temp was about 88. Cut the guts out of the thermostat and problem solved.

    So the new waxstat thermostat I fitted at the same time I replaced head and head gasket was stuffed. Boiled it up and it only just cracked open at 100oc. Should of boiled it up before I installed it.

    Should have known better too as I had the same problem when car was brand new and it took Land Rover ages to finally figure out what the problem was under warranty.

    What threw me was thinking that the head failure was caused by overheating. When I fitted new head and thermostat and it did not solve the overheating problem I went chasing everything else.

    Thanks everyone for your help. Once again shows how awesome the forum is.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    25,191
    the reason the bleed helped will be because your vactuator is not vacutating properly....

    when it works properly flow from either the thermostat housing or the radiator will venturi the other to the header tank.

    IF a coke bottle bleed in this situation makes a difference and is not showing a steady stream of small bubbles your vactuator is behaving like a t Piece.

    So long as the cooling system is full to the top of the thermostat housing and the radiator is full you wont have any issues but if you get a little low on coolant or get air in the system you need it working properly.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Boonah
    Posts
    224
    Thanks Dave. I'll pull it and clean it again. It has been as source of great annoyance as each of the crimped hoses clamps has sprung a slight leak over the last few months. I have been progressively cutting them off and replacing with conventional hose clamps.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,191
    if you can find one, the right shaped Y piece will do the same job. not as well but well enough.

    you can also make up a vactuator out of some common air fittings and the right sort of olive joiners. And you can get (or could) get it all from bunnings.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    704
    The problem is the gauge wiring. You have a bad connection on the ground side. The IR guns are very accurate. It is probably the engine ground.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,642
    Yeah, could be a flaky gauge wiring, but my experience with this is that it'll fluctuate wildly and even show insane figures, eg. 120 from about 60 while it's still warming up on a cold morning .. and suchlike.
    I have a VDO gauge(kind'a .. via an electronic/lcd interface tho).

    But I had a similar heating up issue, only difference is my issue was only on mid 30's days AND with A/C on. A/C off even in 40C days showed approx 90-ish max(egt's in the 600's tho).

    I found high sustained EGTs caused the coolant to heat up. Maybe no so much the motor itself, as if the motor, or block) was also getting hot, the oil temp would rise significantly even if delayed somewhat.

    Sometimes I'd see >100C temps sustained for say 30 mins, but oil temp would rise into the mid 80's to low 90s after a while too.
    My oil temps are generally 10-15C lower than coolant temp.

    My tdi is in a Disco tho, auto too. So it may make a difference.
    But my solution was this:

    My scoop bodge thread

    I got new radiators(not yet fitted), new hoses(fitted) .. tried a few various options(same with that vactuator hose/blob thing too. Nothing made any difference to my specific issue other than the above scoop bodge, or A/C off or gentler driving(to keep EGT down).

    if the Defer has this plastic panel fitted and is missing, could be that a lot of air supposed to run through the rad fins are being directed downward too.
    I have zero experience with Defers.

    ps. the notion that the fan shroud helps in any way is (in my experience) a misnomer. I've had mine off(due to damage) for the past 3 years. Also put it on after a lot of epoxy patching, but having taken it off to do some more work again, left it off .. 3 years ago.
    Made zero difference in mine. Just that scoop I made. Note that a small amount of air comes in under the bull bar now, so maybe this helps .. dunno .. except that the last time I drive it hard up hill in 34C ambient, max temp at the coolant was 91C, with EGT at 700C(for about a minute).
    When backed off(obviously slowed and dropped back to third) coolant dropped, where prior it'd keep rising(once hot), and take a much longer easy driving(ie. slow) to cool it back down again.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

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