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Thread: Putting a permanent bend in Masonite

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Putting a permanent bend in Masonite

    I need to replace the headlining in my Dormobile and the original was made from Masonite covered in a textured vinyl.
    Problem is it needs a permanent curve at the outside edges so I need to work out (without wasting too may sheets of Masonite) how to do this.

    I guess I first need a former (male & female) and then either soak or steam the Masonite and clamp it in the former to dry.
    I've worked out that one former can be used for both right & left so at least it doesn't have to be the full size of the front section (but relies on some accurate measuring !).

    You can see the front section hanging down at the rear edge in the picture below. The hardboard (Masonite) has split and sagged with condensation over the years.

    DSCF3402 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    Anyone tried this before ?
    Someone on the Land Rover Classic Campers forum mentioned soaking in hot water, my concern is that with a male & female former it might struggle to dry out.

    There are some smaller pieces either side of the roof opening with the same curvature so I might play with them before tackling the front, then I need to make a reasonable job of gluing on a textured vinyl material......




    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Colin, does it have to be Masonite, or might you be better off using plywood?
    You’ll probably find ply a whole lot easier to work with, and you’ll be able to form it with steam. A steel frame will be easy to fabricate, even just a couple of loose lengths and clamps to get you’re curves right (no welding needed). Boil water in a pot or two, cover the whole lot with a tarp. 👍
    Marcus & Leeanne
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  3. #3
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    Narre Warren South
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    Colin, does it have to be Masonite, or might you be better off using plywood?
    You’ll probably find ply a whole lot easier to work with, and you’ll be able to form it with steam. A steel frame will be easy to fabricate, even just a couple of loose lengths and clamps to get you’re curves right (no welding needed). Boil water in a pot or two, cover the whole lot with a tarp. 👍
    I'm not sure plywood will take a 'set' unless you laminate it,
    Plus plywood wouldn't be 'original' ........

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Bunbury, WA
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    1,905
    If its going to be covered, polycarbonate sheet might be another option? It can be bent over a form with a heat gun/paint stripper gun.
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86" (I'll finish it one day.....)
    1980 Stage 1 v8

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Aluminium sheet 18 g. A sheetmetal shop could roll any radius you want, light and no paint needed


    Noel

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Aluminium sheet 18 g. A sheetmetal shop could roll any radius you want, light and no paint needed
    Problem is it wouldn't give any insulating properties.

    Sleeping inside it would end up raining condensation.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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