V8 Head Gasket Tips and Tricks?

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Originally Posted by 4X4V8

.....I owned a 16-year old German V8 sedan before the Disco with 160,000 km and the engine was perfect, had never been apart, ... I sold it for its mostly age-related problems ......

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My '79 RR has done 496,000 klms on original ....just about everything!
I got it in '88 with 148,000. Still have it, and it's age related problems :p

Oils leaks :lol:, tickety cams/rockers/lifters/springs, drove it for 2 years with a rotted radiator...from Melb to Ayer Rock, Eucla, Lake Eyre, Slim Dusty style....we checked every nook and cranny, and just assumed the temp gauge had gone haywire showing hotter than normal.

Some people have luck, others make their own luck.....
....me....I guess I've been lucky with my 19 vehicles, mostly Rover(V8's!! about 10-12) and possibly 2-3+ million klms...I lost count !

Apart from ALL the electrical failures, on all my poms.....
Only car that "let me down" was a '74 P6B when a bottom end bearing let go.
Oh!... and the Type 3 VW engine that fell out :lol: Cracked it engine mounts!

Currently the '98 Rodeo may break the RR record(but I ain't counting my chickens yet!) @ 400,000klms and hasn't missed a beat, except for valve recession(on gas)......

...BUT!! It aint a Rangie (or any other LR!!) and it can be disposed of without teary farewells!

As you only had it a week, and it's a '99 model...well who knows what the previous owner has done???

I should really learn how to pull apart/put back together a Rover V8!
Not that the skill would have come in handy! :rolleyes:

Thanks for that Guys.

I'd be lying if I said it was the answer I wanted to hear, but thems the breaks. I'll be off to the wrecker for some new bolts this coming weekend. I've been quoted around $150 for a new set of bolts and if that's the price for not having to do this job again for a very long time, then so be it. Before this job the most complicated engine bay I'd worked in was a gemini's and lets just say the Disco has been a big step forward. There have been a few choice words said as I've tried to work in what seems to me, to be a tight engine bay. But at the end of the day, now that things are starting to work out, I'm glad I've attempted the job as I've learnt a lot. Mind you if I ever get stuck out bush I think I'd starve to death before I managed to actually get anything fixed. :)

Cheers,

Harvs.

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Mind you if I ever get stuck out bush I think I'd starve to death before I managed to actually get anything fixed. :)

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:D:D:D:D :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Disco_Harvs

Thanks for that Guys.

I'd be lying if I said it was the answer I wanted to hear, but thems the breaks. I'll be off to the wrecker for some new bolts this coming weekend. I've been quoted around $150 for a new set of bolts and if that's the price for not having to do this job again for a very long time, then so be it. Before this job the most complicated engine bay I'd worked in was a gemini's and lets just say the Disco has been a big step forward. There have been a few choice words said as I've tried to work in what seems to me, to be a tight engine bay. But at the end of the day, now that things are starting to work out, I'm glad I've attempted the job as I've learnt a lot. Mind you if I ever get stuck out bush I think I'd starve to death before I managed to actually get anything fixed. :)

Cheers,

Harvs.

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Well harvs...how is it going??

Hi amshaw,

I think it's all fixed. I put on the last few parts on the weekend and so far so good. I've only driven it once and I lost a bit of coolant but I'm hoping that was just air bubbles sorting themselves out. I'll be checking it again tonight any hopefully everything is fine.

I have a slight problem with idle, ie it won't idle at anything below 1200 rpm in gear and 1700 in neutral or park. I looked in the manual for a idle learning procedure for the ECU, but there doesn't seem to be one. There seems to be the idle control screw which modifies the revs a little but not much at all. Initially I thought it might be the throttle position sensor but that doesn't seem to have any impact on idle revs. I think I might just take it to the mechanic for a good tuning.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Harvs.

P.S. I didn't have any parts left over so that's always a good thing. Sure I lost a little scraper thing somewhere in the engine bay and still haven't found it but as there are no nasty clashing sounds I'm guessing it's not causing any trouble

Harvs,
The idle is set as "base idle" on the screw on top of the throttle body , then the stepper contols it at about 800RPM no load, and 550-600 in drive
If it is idling fast you have one of a few problems
1 There is dirt around the throttle plate. Fix, go in there with some carb cleaner and a rag.
2 You have a vacuum leak. Did you reconnect the little hose at he back to the fuel pressure regulator?
3 The stepper motor is sticking. Remove and clean the little cone thing with carb cleaner and clean the housing with cotton buds.(just like you do your ears) Assuming a 3.9 which I cannot remember.
4 You have the timing too far advanced. Check with a timing light.OR the centrifugal advance may have feozen. If a 3.9.

To set the base idle warm it up. Disconnect and block both ends of the hose from the manifold to the stepper and set the base idle to 550RPM by turning teh screw in or out. This is after youy have checked the other things.
Regard sPhilip A

Thanks PhilipA,

1. When you say throttle plate are you talking of the whole accelerator etc assembly attatched to the plenum? If so I've sprayed that with CRC and wiped with a rag as I was worried some of the components may be sticking.

2. I have attached that little pipe but I did notice the other night when I killed the engine that there was a slight hiss coming from that area. I might need to investigate this further and ensure there are no leaks.

3. I never removed the stepper motor so I'm assuming it's still ok. If all else fails I'll check it out.

4. Again I'm assuming the timing is ok. I didn't touch any of the timing gear so it shouldn't be out. I hope.

"Disconnect and block both ends of the hose from the manifold to the stepper and set the base idle to 550RPM ". Damn it, I knew there was something I was forgetting last night. I'll block the hoses tonight and try again. :oops2:


Cheers,

Harvs.

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Originally Posted by Disco_Harvs

Thanks PhilipA,

1. When you say throttle plate are you talking of the whole accelerator etc assembly attatched to the plenum? If so I've sprayed that with CRC and wiped with a rag as I was worried some of the components may be sticking.

2. I have attached that little pipe but I did notice the other night when I killed the engine that there was a slight hiss coming from that area. I might need to investigate this further and ensure there are no leaks.

3. I never removed the stepper motor so I'm assuming it's still ok. If all else fails I'll check it out.

4. Again I'm assuming the timing is ok. I didn't touch any of the timing gear so it shouldn't be out. I hope.

"Disconnect and block both ends of the hose from the manifold to the stepper and set the base idle to 550RPM ". Damn it, I knew there was something I was forgetting last night. I'll block the hoses tonight and try again. :oops2:


Cheers,

Harvs.

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should check your timing before you stuff up any idle or mixture settings. never assume it's ok...always check it. a lot of electricians have died that way

The throttle plate "butterfly" is the thing that turns inside the mouth of the throttle body. Also the pipe that comes from the ventilator into the plenum should be cleaned.
Sometimes you can also get a vacuum leak if the little T piece from that vent pipe to the bottom front of the plenum has cracked. This is not a normal Tpiece as it has a restrictor in it. Sometimes people replace this T piece with a normal T piece and they can never get the idle down.
Anyway , you now know where to look so go through each thing progressively.
Re the timing. You were able to remove the heads without pulling out the distributor? Good one. You can do mine next.
Regards Philip A