Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 28

Thread: Propshaft Nuts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    95
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Propshaft Nuts

    Have a query about propshaft nuts, in particular the ones used on the diff flange ends of the propshafts. This is for Disco 1 but same for Defender etc.

    The nut part number is NZ606041L which is 3/8 UNF nyloc.

    I have two different nuts that fit this spec.

    The first are 3/8 UNF low profile (9.3mm) in mild steel.

    The second are 3/8 UNF high profile (11.7mm) in high tensile steel.

    See pic. Can I use either, or must they be low profile ?? Or must they be high tensile?? Can’t find much info on this and see lots of pics of both listed for Landrover nuts.

    4B56BD3F-D4A7-4784-AB6D-29F0E3638DCE.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,675
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The low profile make it easier to use a ring spammer, less chance of rounding the nut.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    643
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have been using the high tensile one....

    Just got them from local bolt shop....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
    Posts
    2,590
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Long-term memory here but I seem to recall the studs aren't long enough to fully engage the nylon locking part of the deep nuts.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,279
    Total Downloaded
    0
    And to throw a googly...

    I use K-Nuts, (aircraft spec, HT) there, replaced all the front ones last weekend when installing a new driveshaft.
    Used K-Nuts on the Deefer prop shafts for the entire time I had the car.

    Reduced hex for clearance, all metal locking, precise specs, infinitely reusable.

    I'd rather use HT there although all the torque is taken in shear, not tension.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    13,981
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just do not get longer ones than standard as you will not be able to get a ring spanner on and off.
    I recall I was offered those shorter ones and longer ones and reluctantly took the shorter ones but that was the correct decision.
    BTW the correct tool makes this job so much easier as you can use a rattle gun

    Regards PhilipA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
    Posts
    13,078
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I hate rattle guns and can't believe you would want to use one a 3/8 or 10mm thread.

    I had a real ****fight many years ago when working for a truck and forklift company in Darwin in the 70's.

    I had just done a top over on one of Buntines 350 Cummins and was on 2nd torque when I heard a click that wasn't the torque wrench. I told the workshop foreman thinking it was fatigue and he said just rattle it out and have a look. I refused so he jumped up on truck and grabbed the rattle gun which was large and on a counterbalance and proceeded to run the bolt out. Of course it brought all the thread out of the block with it. He said oh **** just loctite it back in , we want the truck out tonight. I refused to loctite it. He did and I completed the rest of the pulldown. I said you should ring Noel and tell him. He said no , what he dont know wont hurt him. They sent the truck out down to Alice that night. I knew Noel from flying and rang him and told him. He took it well. If you know the 350 head bolts you will know how much damage was done and you cant helicoil the block.

    When I got to work the next day the foreman was waiting for me with a termination cheque.

    Just a rattle gun story of mine.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
    Posts
    13,078
    Total Downloaded
    0
    British Off Road supply the short nuts with their propshafts.

    I don't think you can get a ring spanner on the long ones due to interference.

    That may vary with different brand yokes or shafts as well.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    13,981
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It's like a hand gun.
    It's not the gun it's the operator.
    I see no harm in undoing those nuts with a Ryobi rattle gun and the correct tool. Note I said use the correct tool.
    Also I have a delicate enough touch to stop the gun on the first tick and then tighten with a spanner.
    I also use a small electric gun eg ALDI with not much torque to remove and replace the rocker cover bolts. Saves lots of time. I do not know why anyone these days would use a spinner spanner.
    Regards PhilipA


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I just replaced my nuts and bolts on the rear driveshaft of my 101 - straight from the nut and bolt shop no issues. Dont need to use ring spanners, sensible use of open enders got the old ones off and the new ones on. I always use a low strength thread locker on the nylocs as I have found the nylocs can loosen a bit over time without it - particularly on my front driveshaft with the "101 rumble".

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!