Thread: Domestic pump pressure switch problem

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi All,

Won't mention the pump brand, but it has a TeePres pressure switch, 1" inlet and outlet.

Hold pressure no probs over 24 hrs but will keep running for a bit after the 'tap' is turned off, then stop.

Then it may not restart when the 'tap' is opened and the pressure visibly drops on the gauge.

Talked to the manufacturer of these pumps who said it sounded like it needed a new controller (electronic).

I said it's only about 8 years old and has hardly done any work. The tech said that there is a little magnet inside the controller that loses strength over time.

I'm not good with getting that sort of 'info' so I thanked him for his expertise.

Now I'm thinking how come things like pumps that have CE and ISO certification have a ****ing 'shelf life' of sorts because some switch degrades whether you use it or not?

C'mon all you fridgies..............

DL

If it is a yellow one with torrium. We have had a level of fine silt in the controller that was flushed out an pump back to its old self. Would hang on start until the red override button was pressed then fine for a while. Bought a new controller and it is still sitting on the shelf 12 months later.

Motor body is blue with a pressed stainless pump body.

I'm thinking something simple is wrong and just looking for clues. Quite capable of taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together.

DL

Originally Posted by dromader driver

If it is a yellow one with torrium. We have had a level of fine silt in the controller that was flushed out an pump back to its old self. Would hang on start until the red override button was pressed then fine for a while. Bought a new controller and it is still sitting on the shelf 12 months later.

That one was my first thought too for my house water pump. It would cut out every time we had a hot day and need a manual restart. Replaced the controller with one that didn't have Torrium written on it, never been a problem since. They have not got a good reputation.

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Motor body is blue with a pressed stainless pump body.

I'm thinking something simple is wrong and just looking for clues. Quite capable of taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together.

DL

Sounds like my Bianco bore water pump. That said, it does sound like the pressure switch. I just changed my pump and controller and went again. They're not all that expensive if you search online for the best value dealer and postage.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

That one was my first thought too for my house water pump. It would cut out every time we had a hot day and need a manual restart. Replaced the controller with one that didn't have Torrium written on it, never been a problem since. They have not got a good reputation.


Sounds like my Bianco bore water pump. That said, it does sound like the pressure switch. I just changed my pump and controller and went again. They're not all that expensive if you search online for the best value dealer and postage.

Same for same is about 450 list price.

To me it's not really the point, if what the rep said is true, re: a decaying magnet in the switch.

Controller is TeePres

cheers, DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi All,

Won't mention the pump brand, but it has a TeePres pressure switch, 1" inlet and outlet.

Hold pressure no probs over 24 hrs but will keep running for a bit after the 'tap' is turned off, then stop.

Then it may not restart when the 'tap' is opened and the pressure visibly drops on the gauge.

Talked to the manufacturer of these pumps who said it sounded like it needed a new controller (electronic).

I said it's only about 8 years old and has hardly done any work. The tech said that there is a little magnet inside the controller that loses strength over time.

I'm not good with getting that sort of 'info' so I thanked him for his expertise.

Now I'm thinking how come things like pumps that have CE and ISO certification have a ****ing 'shelf life' of sorts because some switch degrades whether you use it or not?

C'mon all you fridgies..............

DL

CE means it won't interfere with parts of the radio spectrum, and ISO means there is a paper trail for all the components used. Neither have anything to do with the quality of the items they pertain to.

Most likely the relay contacts in the controller. (Had that before)
Or wiring terminations burnt.
Nock offs on Ebay cheap.

Mine house pump has an old style square D (?) pressure switch. My ususl problems are silt build up in the diaphram and or the orifice going to it, or ants getting in and between the contacts causing them burn [emoji849]

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi All,

Won't mention the pump brand, but it has a TeePres pressure switch, 1" inlet and outlet.

Hold pressure no probs over 24 hrs but will keep running for a bit after the 'tap' is turned off, then stop.

Then it may not restart when the 'tap' is opened and the pressure visibly drops on the gauge.

Talked to the manufacturer of these pumps who said it sounded like it needed a new controller (electronic).

I said it's only about 8 years old and has hardly done any work. The tech said that there is a little magnet inside the controller that loses strength over time.

I'm not good with getting that sort of 'info' so I thanked him for his expertise.

Now I'm thinking how come things like pumps that have CE and ISO certification have a ****ing 'shelf life' of sorts because some switch degrades whether you use it or not?

C'mon all you fridgies..............

DL

That's a new one on me, but I'd just replace the controller.

My preference was always Grundfoss, didn't have an issue with the last house pump I bought, and the multi stage centrifugals were dead reliable on the farm.
I've lived in town for the last few years so don't have the joys of pumps and filters and pipes and checking pickups in rivers anymore.
Actually I'd much, much rather do all that than live in town.....

Rick, re Square D, old school diaphragm and points. Doesn't get any simpler.

The pumps I play with for work on large chillers these days have transducers for flow and no pressure switch as they run continuously.