Tote
I bought a bunch of the heated seat I think they are OEM factories from Western European supplier
Way more than I need
You can flick the covers between switches
Happy to come to an arrangement for a fellow 130 steerer
S
I am getting an Elocker fitted to the 130 and rather than have the switch that comes with it screwed into the dash somewhere I have done the wiring for the locker so my diff fitter can just do the mechanicals. Since I had some tribulations with the switches I thought I'd do a write up.
The switches have a key on them so that they only fit in some positions on the dash. For ease of fitting a sharp Stanley knife will fix this. I am using part BA 10309 from Mud Stuff.
IMGP0640.1.jpg
My 130 has several spare plugs in the loom for accessories not applicable to the 130, Conveniently they have pins 2 and 4 wired for the back lighting so I borrowed those and reterminated them in the plug for my new switch. The plugs are also keyed so they won't fit in the switch. I have borrowed the wires from the white plug and left the one remaining wire in it. I couldn't manage to remove the wires from the plug intact which was my initial plan
IMGP0641.1.jpg
The wiring on these particular switches is designed so that they are switching the relay coil to earth, this complicates the picture a little bit but on the upside if the wiring shorts to earth the worst that will happen is the diff lock will come on. I ran four wires fronm the back of the dash, through the grommet behind the heater tap and under the floor to the Ex-Box which is where all my electronics now live, rather than under the drivers seat. The length is about 3.5 metres and the extra 2 wires are in case I put in a front diff lock in the future.
One wire connecting to pin 1 on the switch is for the relay activation and routes through the switch to the earth connection for the illumination circuit. The power for this circuit is sourced from an ignition on point (I use the one I wired for the Subwoofer) this ensures the diff lock is not powered when the key is not on.
The other wire is for the orange indicator light on the switch and connects to pin5 on the switch and the second pin 87 on my Narva relay (greyed out in the circuit diagram)
normal_IMG_0698.JPG
The relay is mounted on the side of the Ex-Box and a note has been left attached so the installer can find it.......
IMGP0647.1.jpg
The dash all put back together with the switch installed
IMGP0648.1.jpg
Now for the bad bit... The switches are crap. The orange indicator light on the first switch lasted about a minute and failed, no problem thinks me, I'll replace it with the spare switch, same result. It is conceivable that these are wired without a ballast resister and expect the circuit to limit current through the led but in this day and age I find that pretty unusual. Potentially the fix is to order a replacement genuine switch through my friendly dealer and see how that works. The genuine part for the switch is YUG000540LNF.
Also, the switches are supplied with a copy of the wiring diagram but there are two different diagrams for two different switches, the one in this thread is the correct one.
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
Tote
I bought a bunch of the heated seat I think they are OEM factories from Western European supplier
Way more than I need
You can flick the covers between switches
Happy to come to an arrangement for a fellow 130 steerer
S
PM sent.
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
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