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Thread: Coolant leak at hose ends - solutions

  1. #1
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    Coolant leak at hose ends - solutions

    I have had an irritating problem with (very) minor leakage at cooling system hose ends on the D1.
    Mainly the WP outlet above the alternator ( drips onto body ) and the bottom hose.
    I have changed hoses and clamps, cleaned mating surfaces, tightened and retightened clamps but still persistent minor leaks.
    So I am thinking of changing clamp type to a constant torque style.

    Like this Hose Clamp - Constant Torque - 57-79 mm - Stainless Steel - CT 300 LSS - Breeze - 10/Pack | Hose Clips – Stainless Steel – Norma | Clamps & Clips – Hose | Hose & Hose Fittings | Blackwoods

    or this https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1071652197...gaAmQCEALw_wcB

    Opinions?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by edddo View Post
    I have had an irritating problem with (very) minor leakage at cooling system hose ends on the D1.
    Mainly the WP outlet above the alternator ( drips onto body ) and the bottom hose.
    I have changed hoses and clamps, cleaned mating surfaces, tightened and retightened clamps but still persistent minor leaks.
    So I am thinking of changing clamp type to a constant torque style.

    Like this Hose Clamp - Constant Torque - 57-79 mm - Stainless Steel - CT 300 LSS - Breeze - 10/Pack | Hose Clips – Stainless Steel – Norma | Clamps & Clips – Hose | Hose & Hose Fittings | Blackwoods

    or this https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1071652197...gaAmQCEALw_wcB

    Opinions?
    Mikalor T bolt style stainless only way to go

    AM

  3. #3
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    Thks AM
    I have some..they are too wide for the WP clamp.
    And I dont want to drain the coolant just now, to fit one on the bottom hose.
    But will try one there eventually.
    So I might try the constant torque ones for now.

  4. #4
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    Is it a case of the hose going hard with heat and age and not being pliable enough to make a leak proof seal?

  5. #5
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    If they are new hoses and red coolant , just wait a few hundred kilometers and they will seal up. They drool for a while.

    I now use the factory type sprung clamps as they keep a constant pressure unlike the screw type which ease off as the rubber hose compresses.
    Regards PhilipA

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post

    I now use the factory type sprung clamps as they keep a constant pressure unlike the screw type which ease off as the rubber hose compresses.
    Regards PhilipA
    Ditto.

    Constant pressure worm drive clamps are available but not easy to come by.

  7. #7
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    What rick said.

    But if you still have issues,which you shouldn’t,if there is room put one clamp beside another on same hose if you know what I mean.

    Done this on corroded coolant parts,and it’s worked,mainly on old Holdens years ago,water pumps,thermostat housings,etc.
    Paul

    D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56
    Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run

  8. #8
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    Another solution along with constant pressure clamps is when fitting the hoses coat the spigot/neck with Permatex No 3 (the brown tacky stuff that gets on everything ;-))) it makes a good seal especially on alloy fittings and stops coolant getting between hose and spigot and causing corrosion. It also make hose fitting and removal much easier as the rubber doesn't grip/bond to the fitting allowing hoses to slide on and off when clamps are loosened.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the info and ideas.
    Fyi - new hoses and Ethylene Glycol green coolant ( Nulon I think).
    Can get the constant torque clamps on ebay and elsewhere.
    The Permatex 3 doesnt add to slipperiness does it? ie risk of sliding off higher under pressure?

  10. #10
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    No it dries and sticks, helps seal the hose against the fitting really well but allows the hose to be removed easily. By sealing the hose to fitting interface it also stops the alloy fittings from corroding as they are wont to do.

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