Wild price differences on clutch master

I've had mine replaced on my MY2002 Td5 110 under warranty but Kevin at Rovertech here in Perth reckons stainless sleeved replacements are all he uses.
They appear from his vast experience to be a far better item and will last for years. That is what I'll do if mine leaks again.
As for adjusting them according to the book, I've tried that and it don't work!
The adjusting bolt at the end of the bracket the m/c is attached to does nothing ......... won't adjust anything from my efforts and it's been right in and right out!
The pedal is about 150mm from the floor and 140mm on mine is unattainable. The Main Stealer adjusted it again after I complained the bloody thing was virtually fully engaged just off the floor and it now feels as it did from new and the mechanic reckons he doesn't take any notice of that measurement as he can't get it on most Defenders.
Alan.

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Originally Posted by 4bee

This is why I have all the bores (MCs, slaves, wheels etc) sleeved with Stainless liners as & when they fail. In Adelaide, Power Brakes specialise in this concept. All that can then let go, are the seals.

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I had my brake m/c resleeved recently and cost the very reasonable sum of $70 whereas a replacement mc i priced at between $245 and $385 !

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Originally Posted by 4bee

This is why I have all the bores (MCs, slaves, wheels etc) sleeved with Stainless liners as & when they fail. In Adelaide, Power Brakes specialise in this concept. All that can then let go, are the seals.

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and its real easy to carry a seal kit in your spares box and change it out in the bush.....

and takes a lot less space than a master cylinder assembly......and lighter too......:D

Back to a 110 TDi clutch master cylinder replacement.....

Any practical tips on renewing the master cylinder. Just read the workshop manual and it appears that you need to take out the whole pedal bracket, air filter, speedo cable etc to get access. Not tried it yet but is this really necessary? Any short cuts?

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Originally Posted by White 110

Back to a 110 TDi clutch master cylinder replacement.....

Any practical tips on renewing the master cylinder. Just read the workshop manual and it appears that you need to take out the whole pedal bracket, air filter, speedo cable etc to get access. Not tried it yet but is this really necessary? Any short cuts?

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It is not really necessary - but it is by far the easiest way! It IS possible to get at the bottom bolt on the cylinder without taking the whole assembly out, but removing the whole lot is a lot quicker and easier.
John