Thread: Removing the rubber flange from tailshaft

You should be able to just fit a 4 bolt pinion flange & fit a tailshaft from an earlier Disco or even a classic RR. I just so happen to have a brand spanking new flange in my garage (somewhere) that is yours if you want it. Someone here should be able to help you out with a 2nd hand shaft. Even if it needs uni's, it's going to be a lot cheaper than $270.

New uni-uni tailshaft was $3-400 from Davis Performance Landys, there is no reason to by a fabbed up shaft that may vibrate. Flanges I think were $70-100.

A lot of people don't strengthen broken parts because they think the next part along is going to break. True, but its a Rover and you just need to keep strengthening it until it doesn't break. Order of breaking bits will be the rubber propshaft, then the diff/axles/CV's, then the Crown wheel/pinion. The transfer cases and gearboxs are pretty strong.

or....you could find the cheapest part and just strengthen everything up to that point........

I thought that the problem with drive shafts and larger tyres/suspension lifts was that angle the shaft is required to travel through is increased to beyond its capabilities. If so, then replacing the donut shaft isn't so much strengthening the weakest link as making the setup work.

And, having seen Tony's accident, you don't want a propshaft to go out on the track.

Cheers,
Simon.

Originally Posted by Ace

Hi all, since the installation of the 2in lift in the disco i have been having problems with the rubber flange in the rear tail shaft and shreading it everytime i go off road with my bigger tyres on. I was under the car today servicing and greasing everything and say that it was starting to split with just general use. I have spoken to a few people about options and a replacement tailshaft which has been modified seems the go, i have been quoted $270 exchange from LVS for one that has been modified using part of a front tailshaft. But i have a couple of questions i want answered before i fork out the dollars when i get them.

are you fitting it correctly?

there is only one way to fit it correctly but they fit two ways and most people dont do it the right way, i am told...

something about a thick side and a thin side....

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

I thought that the proplem with drive shafts and larger tyres/suspension lifts was that angle the shaft is required to travel through is increased to beyond its capabilities. If so, then replacing the donut shaft isn't so much strengthening the weakest link as making the setup work.

And, having seen Tony's accident, you don't want a propshaft to go out on the track.

Cheers,
Simon.

The uni joint is definately stronger than the rubber coupling. I've broken a few rubber couplings on 33's, and its big jolt forces that does it eg, spinning and landing etc. I'm now on 35's and the uni so far has been absolutely solid. Mind you it does seem strange a 2" lift would damage it.

Hi Guys
I purchased a complete replacement kit for my last service,a lot less than $270,more like $140 and this included the inner running bearing for the diff input.
The local mechanic couldnt replace the diff side part,depite trying to make up his own tool,so he refitted the original rubber.
So I have a complete kit waiting for me to bust,yes I carry it on off road trips.
Andrew

This site has some good stuff on propshafts and lifts.
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

O.K. so now you've done it. You put that lift in your vehicle or changed the engine, transmission or transfer case or differential maybe all of the above and now your go anywhere four wheel drive baby rides like a out of balance washing machine. Or now that you've got all that raw power & torque you keep breaking your drive shaft. What do you do? The lift kit manufacturer may tell you one thing and the local drive line shop or mechanic will tell you another. You certainly haven't put this much time, effort and money into creating the ultimate 4X4 to live in fear of the possible catastrophic consequences which can come about (usually at the worst possible moment) from neglecting drive line considerations.

And some pretty pictures here.

Or you can go here and read a much longer and more confusing version.

Cheers
Simon