BTW don't try to get to 1% CO or it will run very badly. This is for emission compliance. Oops forgot mostly runs on gas.
Also run about 10 degrees static advance. Or on gas as much as you can say 12-14?
Regards philipA
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BTW don't try to get to 1% CO or it will run very badly. This is for emission compliance. Oops forgot mostly runs on gas.
Also run about 10 degrees static advance. Or on gas as much as you can say 12-14?
Regards philipA
I believe that was going to be one option for him, but looks like this engine - which could have been a parts donor - is in decent condition - I drove the Disco it was in before removing it and it went fine, the gearbox was toast which is why it was wrecked. I needed some bits but the guy wanted to sell the motor complete so I bought it, took what I needed and past it onto DC to help get his vehicle back on the road. I think the valley gaskets and rocker cover gaskets were its biggest issues.
I would have pulled a conrod from this motor and used ..... Only it seems to be quite a sound motor (so why pull it apart). I will chase up a conrod at some point an fit to the other one. Given my propensity for stuff failing ....... I obviously need a spare [bighmmm] [bigrolf]Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
given I've bought a VRS gasket set, all I'd need for the other motor is another conrod as I'll have the head gaskets here.
Interestingly, the dizzie in this 3.9 doesn't have an ignition module, just a wiring connector .... I'm guessing they remote mounted the ignition module on Discos.
No - only from about 96 and for very good reason. If they are on the dizzy they cook and get dry joints causing major starting issues. I had a 94 3.9 from new and the first 5 years were sheer hell until the problem was understood - once the ignition module was moved remotely no more issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
excellent... I guess I'll persist with the dizzy mounted module for now ( simply because its what I have here :) ).Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
So I have the valley cover off both motors now ...... Are the cams made of playdoh or something ? Both cams look very sad (to look sad visually they must be trash).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...3&d=1610756684
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...4&d=1610756684
Look at the weird looking erosion on the edgees. Weirdly all the lobes seemed to lift the valves nice and high, and give the lifters a nice spin as I turned the flywheel....
So I measured the lift of the lifters... and they were all pretty much exactly lifting 5.85mm .... (give or take 0.2mm ..... which is probably ok given the faces of the lifters aren't flat in order to spin the lifter).
I'm guessing this ugly looking cam is still fine given its spinning each lifter and lifting them 5.85mm ..... Bizarre. Is there any specific cam people recommend for general daily use (and towing) if I decide I'll replace this ?
seeya
Shane L.
The problem is that the cam has a small diameter, which goes back to the original GM design.
This was apparently necessary to allow crankshaft rotation.
Replace the cam and lifters.
IMHO the best cam is a stock 3.9 cam.
The oil was not changed enough.
Regards PhilipA
I've been googling and reading the online manuals for about 1/2hour now..... I must be blind .... I can't find the tightening torque settings for the clutch pressure plate, or the intake to compress the valley cover gasket. I would have thought the intake would have a tightening sequence like heads do ... The reference I can find in the manual says 28Nm for the pressure plate bolts (really ?? so not much more than finger tight !). Surely I'm reading this stuff wrong [bighmmm]
edit: Finally... the damn thing is called a "ram housing". 26Nm sounds good for it
So the go is you just have to scroll through the manual a page at a time and actually look at each page. Searching for "tightening specs" or anything like that will drive you nuts. Its all in the text, not the torque settings list at the end of the manual.
Attachment 167887
Well that's a shame. The only place on ebay I could find the gasket kits was lrpartsrover. They were amazingly prompt to send the gasket kit (I order it Thursday and it was here Friday). I emailed them monday ..... Nothing..... They completely ignore emails if you have issues. I checked there feedback which is almost all positive. The negative/nuetral feedback stating they will not replace or refund incorrectly sent of damaged parts.<br>
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...-gasket-g1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...-gasket-g2.jpg
[immg]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/technical-chatter/167895-valley-cover-gasket-g4.jpg[/img]
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...-gasket-g3.jpg
No 7 port was folded over 90degrees, it kinked like this when I straightened it. There was no damage to get packaging, but I'm thinking something heavy was dropped on the package in transit. (rather than them sending me bent gaskets).
Its a shame, I've had such good luck buying from the online land rover sellers in the past.
seeya
Shane.
That’s a real bugger. Yeah, with them all being bent it’s unlikely it was the supplier.
Now I've cleaned all this to refit and spent a small fortune on rtv gasket maker, super high temp coppermax silicon (hopefully ... maybe this will give me more than 3 months before I can hear a flange or exhaust gasket blowing .... maybe ... surely ?? ). aviation cement (to hold the rocker cover seals in to fit them), another tube of anti-seize paste --this stuff "dissappears" from my shed like bloody D shackles (with no copper so we don't trash the alloy) ..... and finally some thread sealer and I thought there was bolts into a water jacket on both motors I've pulled the intake from due to how crusty and frozen some of the bolts were ..........
Well, I reckon I've just found why every range rover I've ever owned "loses" a small amount of coolant .... but never has signs of any leakage. They have all obviously leaked a small amount from the inlet manifold. It evaporates off leaving no traces. You can see where the gaskets to narrow and doesn't seal between the bolt holes and water openings. I've used a smear of silicon around both sides of the gasket (around the water passagers). I don't have a lot of confidence. I'll use the loctite thread sealer on the threads of the bolts, but also fill the inlet area of the bolt holes with gasket silicon so even if coolant manages to migrate over to the bolts, it'll be sealed off from the leaking up past the bolts..
