Thread: Oil pressure drop followed by engine knocking

hello again. its been a 4 years since i did an engine swap on my td5. touch wood :-))) did it on stands in my caravan annex. you've removed the engine mounts , so will have plenty of room .

the picture in my mind is a deep 6 sided socket . i went and bought a 1/2 " ratchet with a " swivel " head as well so i could get better angle etc. short skts don't work. ratchet head is too close to casing .

don't use any 12 sided sockets if possible. danger of rounding nut is very high .

hope this helps. pete.

Ive lowered motor and box enough to get the rattle gun to it with a 6 point socket, using short extension and knuckle joint. And it’s not moving. Unbelievable.

Admittedly it’s a SCA 310nm rattle gun.

I finally got the top nut out with this tool I made. I just need to get some accessories off the block and send it in tomorrow.

luv the tool you made. :-))) i've got a "go to " drawer of sockets / spanners etc i've moded to do jobs.

never had much luck with rattle guns and flex joints etc.

best of luck with engine.

pete :-)

So the engine is in for pull down and rebuild.

Preliminary advice is the crank shaft is too worn for re-grind (50 thou oversize bearing req). So a replacement is on the way.

I’m now trying to do a sensible list of parts to replace while the motor is out, or that should be replaced to match the rebuild motor, while trying to keep costs under control. Here is my list so far, in addition to parts required for rebuild:

- water pump
- cluck kit (standard or heavy duty?)
- lift pump.

What the advice on the following for the rebuild (waiting for motor engineers recommended parts list):
- valves/springs
- oil pump
- oil pressure relief valve
- injectors, new or refurb?
- injector pump - new or refurb?
- turbo - refurb, new or upgrade?

Thanks

Injector pump and injectors should be ok.
Turbo should be ok.

I would replace the water pump and check the engine mounts for cracks/splitting.

The oil pump can be inspected and measured for wear.

Hd clutch kit would be good, but will make the pedal a little heavier.
MR automotive do an exchanged flywheel at reasonable cost.

Timing belt and rear main seal is probably on your list already.

Replace lashcaps with VW or crane.

You could send the head away for a check over for cracks and flatness.

cheers,
Tony

Thanks Tony, appreciated.

MR advised the injector pump often fails after 200,000km. So unfortunately will prob get that reconditioned. Injectors have to replaced or refurbed for rebuild warranty.

Water pump, oil pump (some wear), PRV, clutch, rear main seal, timing belt are all on the list.

One mount has a slight crack so will replace both.

The head is good which is some relief.

One con rod and piston need to be replaced. Should I do all 4? Engine place say the bores are ok, just need 20 thou rings, but suggest replacing all pistons/con rods may be a good idea.

Thanks for suggestion on lash caps.

Replacing all pistons and rods seems excessive. If one needs replacing, then yes a matched set would be NICE.
I have replaced one rod previously with no issues. (I should have 2 spares in the shed still)
It is the little end bush on the rod which is near impossible to replace if worn.
Injector pump, if it had no issues previously then I would leave it alone. Recently had mine rebuilt and it come down to looking for wear, $70 seal kit, flowed on the test unit,....$1700
New injectors, fair enough for warranty.

It is a rabbit hole.

Cheers,
Tony