Thanks guys
Ill try Your idea's tomorrow.
Ill let You's know how things go regardless
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Thanks guys
Ill try Your idea's tomorrow.
Ill let You's know how things go regardless
The mis fires happen at all revs..so far no difficulty in starting whether hot or cold.
I checked the battery and it holds 12.44 when the engine isnt running.
I also double checked my readings and they vary from 120psi to 137psi.(I havent worked out the % as yet...I thinks its just over the 10% mark)
This coolant temp sensor'theres just the one on the engine?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ******
Usually you get smoke from start up when the engine hasnt been start for a feew hours.
The oil seeps thru the valves and sit in the pot,so when you start the engine it burns that on start up and clears up after a few minutes....
START SIMPLE! Start with a replacement rotor - even if it is a borrowed one just to try. I was stunned at how badly my 3.9 ran with a non-genuine rotor after only 5000km.
"What can be done with fewer assumptions is done in vain with more."
On a similar theme, can someone tell me what the spark plug gap should be for a 3.9?, my Haynes manual makes no mention of it..
Cheers,
W/M Manual says: 0.84 - 0.96 mm.
not sure where the mention of the rotor came in to it,I havent mentioned the rotor.(rotor is the orginal)
What I did do is check the destributer cap for cracks to ellimunate tracking within the cap....
But very usefull info to say the least.
Ill be trying all these fresh ideas this weekend when I have a chance.(damn work require my body:p )
did these engines run the cold start injector.....?
if it has a cold start injector...simply unplug it and see if it fixes the problem......
you could also try.........pulling the engine fuse.....
(if its in limp mode...it richens the mixture up something drastic.....
to avoid burning the engine due to lean running......)
pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery may reset any faults present.....
I raised the rotor button - the aftermarket versions develop cracks in them causing shorts or lack of constant spark that result in sysmptoms very similar to what you originally mentioned. On cranking can show up as HT to the distributor but no spark to the plugs - however the engine may still fire and run at higher revs and the spark jumps around inside the distributer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bully
It is only the aftermarket rotors that have the problem - they usual last about 3-6 months before they pack it in - it doesn't kill the engine but makes it run like **** - something like the symptoms you suggested.
Gazz:D
Just something to check - do the easy things first.
okkk
Ive cleaned and rechecked the plugs again all ok
Cleaned the airflow sensor
Checked the rotor(well I checked it for resistance)(rotor is a lucas ,is that the after market brand?)
Cleaned the coolant sensor plug with contact cleaner.
But still runns like crap,still missing and getting worse.
One thing I did notice was when its running and I unplug the airflow sensor there is no difference in performance(I started it with it unplug,forgot to plug her in)...could this be the cause??? my guess is if the airflow sensor should work when u unplug it it should be a difference in engine performance on idle and on revs(just my thoughts as I have no idea)
What do u guys think?