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Thread: Clutch problem (continued)

  1. #1
    benzini Guest

    Clutch problem (continued)

    Hi all,
    I need some advice regarding a persistent clutch issue.
    So far I've had a new HD clutch put in, machined the flywheel, recoed the slave cylinder. The current problem at the moment is that the clutch feels like it's working about 3mm before it hits the floor. It also feels like the clutch isn't doing much at all, getting it into gear is an absolute dog! I can't imagine it's doing wonders to my gearbox either! The harder I push the pedal into the carpet (and I mean really push it) the better it goes into gear.

    I've read that it might be the master cylinder seals. The master cylinder (from the outside) still looks brand new although I'm not sure of the maintenance history. Do you think I should put a brand newy in and bleed the system?

    Regards,
    Ben

  2. #2
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    When I did the clutch in the '88 Range Rover I had a similar set of symptoms. Where the pedal joins the plunger for the master cylinder (in the foot well) the bolt that goes though has a cam on it. Adjustment can be gained by loosening and turning this bolt.

    I'm only supposing that your Disco is similar to a classic RR, but worth investigating. It's an awkward position to work in (in the footwell), but it's not greasy and doesn't require any heavy lifting - so it's not such a hard job after all.

    I hope this helps.

  3. #3
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    have you bled the system since the problem started....?

  4. #4
    benzini Guest
    cheers Michael..

    zook, I'm assuming the fourbie placeI took it to that did the slave cylinder and clutch would have bled it there?

    Worth doing again myself?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by benzini
    cheers Michael..

    zook, I'm assuming the fourbie placeI took it to that did the slave cylinder and clutch would have bled it there?

    Worth doing again myself?
    I'd be bleeding it through just to rule out any airbubbles in the system before you replace master cylinders

  6. #6
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    Master cylinder, almost guranteed. Very common. I am on my 3rd. They are not dear and usually show no signs from the outside. The fluid usually drips down the firewall side and is not often very visible.
    Master should be the first thing checked in Rovers.
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

    Facta Non Verba

  7. #7
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    ....................... & if it is, investigate having it Stainless Steel sleeved. Not as expensive as you might imagine, but then it will only be the seals that can let go & not a corroded bore.

    As mine fail, this is what I have done.

  8. #8
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    I had a clutch master cylinder done recently and despite the vacuum bleed they performed I still had an inconsistent pedal.

    I went and bought a beaut little device from super cheap auto for bleeding brake and clutch system and bled it myself(think it was $11) - what do you know there is still are in the system - also found the bleed screw at the slave weeping a little also after the work.

    A good bleed makes a massive difference.

    This little device has a rubbber boot and plastic clip on one end to retain the bleed pipe on the nipple and on the other end it has a one way valve so you dont need it to be submerged in fluid - worked like a charm.

    Best $11 I have ever spent.

    Daz

  9. #9
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    Got any more definitive details, Daz?

  10. #10
    benzini Guest
    Great responses guys thanks a heap!
    I'm going to bleed it tonight and see if it makes any diff before changing the cylinder. If I do have to change it, where is the best place to buy one in a hurry and are they straight forward to replace?

    Regards,
    Ben

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