Thread: Ashcroft center ATB differential

Originally Posted by MBE_NZ

What's involved in fitting the ATB into the transfer?
Is it a big task or simple enough for a back harder to fit?
TIA

Ask me again in a few weeks time …..

The first box I ever pulled apart was an LT230
At that stage I had rebuilt a few engines and other landy mechanicals but had never ventured into a gear bag…

Anyways

IMO an lt230 is a pretty sweet entry to gearbox overhauling

Get a copy of the LR workshop manual specific to the LT230

Read it a few times

Then yank the box out and get to it


The beauty of relaxing centre diff with an ATB is there is no preload setup required.

One other “saving” explained to me by smarter people than me is that all the gearbox/ shaft shims are to make up for variable tolerances between cases.

As such if you are using the same case and just replacing the Centre and new bearings - just reuse the shims as installed … new bearing tolerances will be so close to the old that there should be no change.

Of course I followed the manual and checked preloads etc and they were as stated above - just fine with new bearings and ATB into my then 250kkm plus box

One other thing - for me
Doing a strip down over haul is the very best time to bush the layshaft hole in the case.



I bought an ATB for my “new” tdci 130 about 5 years ago
Of course with life and kids and building a house it’s still sitting in the box!!!

My gut says this year is the year it goes in!!!

Steve

Originally Posted by roverrescue

”………One other thing - for me
Doing a strip down over haul is the very best time to bush the layshaft hole in the case………”
Steve

Yes, I am doing the intermediate / layshaft shaft bush too

…. in fact I’ve purchased 2 bushes, and I will get my “donor” case done at the same time because I’m thinking of putting the empty “newly” bushed case including the sought after diff locking mechanism, up on ebay to recoup some of the cost of the project.

NB: Consider also purchasing a high ratio output gear as I did, because the one in my box, and also in the donor box both had considerable wear on the output gear “dog teeth” and because that gear gets the most use it is prudent to replace it whilst the box is out.

Originally Posted by ozy013

That would be better suited for your diffs...Well on the Defender at least.
Any decent 75W90 will do for your transfer case ... I use either

The Motul can be hard to source...

The Motul is usually on the shelf at a good motorbike shop.

It's my preferred brew for the ATB, (and recommended by Wavetrac for their AT Syntrax UP should work really well too. It's what is going into a mates t/case when it's rebuilt with an ATB.

Originally Posted by rick130

The Motul is usually on the shelf at a good motorbike shop.

It's my preferred brew for the ATB, (and recommended by Wavetrac for their AT Syntrax UP should work really well too. It's what is going into a mates t/case when it's rebuilt with an ATB.

Out of all places, Phil Gilbert Hyunday in Lidcombe sell Motul Gear 300 and they also post it.

Originally Posted by rick130

The Motul is usually on the shelf at a good motorbike shop.

It's my preferred brew for the ATB, (and recommended by Wavetrac for their AT Syntrax UP should work really well too. It's what is going into a mates t/case when it's rebuilt with an ATB.

I have settled on the Castrol Syntrax. I’ll also be fitting an enlarged sump cover and the transfer case oil temp switch that some Disco V8s, Range Rovers and Defenders had from factory.

That's a really good MTF in my experience.
The original version of that brew was developed for TWR/Jaguar for the XJ220 gearbox/transaxle.

I'm confused .... What is the point of this? Surely just locking the center diff is a much better idea. And the cost and effort is zero