I know the DCS lithium batteries charge from a non smart alternator no worries.
Gents...
I'm looking at installing a Lithium Battery into my 2010 Defender (2.4ltr Tdci engine). From my understanding the Alternator is not a SMART Alternator and mine charges at a voltage of 14.1 to 14.4volts usually.
My question is.... Do I really need a DC/DC Charger if I convert to a Lithium or can I simply use a "Ignition Operated" Solenoid to join the 2 batteries together when engine is running and then automatically separates when the engine is turned off..?
(Note: Main and AUX batteries are installed together under Passengers seat, so distance is not an issue)
Thanks in advance...
Rob
I know the DCS lithium batteries charge from a non smart alternator no worries.
I believe the short answer is no but you may impact the capacity available.
As Vern mentions DCS have drop in options. It’d be worthwhile having a chat to DCS plus they are local ish to you.
I’m guessing the main reason you’re wanting to avoid a DC-DC is lack of space in the battery box? Space wasn’t an issue with my upgrade so I installed one.
Things you might want to consider along the way
- check the physical size of batteries, when they say drop in I found at least the length varies and is slightly longer and maybe height.
- check recommended max. Charge rate.
- check max. Discharge rate, to ensure it meets your requirement, normally only an issue if you’re running large inverters.
- if your running a winch you’ll more than like need a switch to disconnect from main.
- understand how you wake up the BMS, it’s worth while wiring at the same time to make it easy.
- Correct, ROOM is an issue
- Terminal configuration is something I need to consider
- No plans for large invertors at this point in time
- I assume u are referring to if I'm not running a DC/DC charger, that I will have to isolate the 2 batteries when winching - is that right? I also assume if I do end up running a DC/DC charger, then it's not a issue?
- I gather you're referring to if u flatten the Lithium that u need to kick start the BMS by applying full voltage from the main battery for a short period of time to initiate the BMS to start charging ??
Also keep in mind, that battery box gets bloody hot in warmer weather.
Need to make sure it remains below the threshold for lithium. Don’t want them overheating or derating.
Re: winch, I run a PTO therefore didn’t research what’s required for an electric winch. My guess is even with a DC-DC you would still need to isolate the lithium. Hopefully somebody will chime in that is already running an electric with lithium AUX and explain what they do.
Re: waking BMS, Good chance that’s the procedure for most battery. I’d say the manufacturer would have the procedure in the manual. I’m only familiar with My lithium, it has a button built into the top of the casing….press for x amount of seconds, although the location would make it difficult to reach.
Agree temp is important……..I regularly check mine via the app when driving, although mine isn’t in the battery box.
There seems to be plenty of people running the DCS’s under the bonnets of their 4B’s without issues…..although early days have seen to many issues popping up online.
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