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Thread: Chassis Painting Advice

  1. 14th September 2021, 01:16 PM #1
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    Chassis Painting Advice

    Hi All,

    Im hoping to get back to working on my '71 S3 and it needs some chassis repairs and a repaint. My plan is to remove the wings, lift the engine to remove the mounts and then flappy disk and wire wheel the chassis to remove the surface rust prior to painting. I am planning to lift the body off the mounts a few inches without pulling the roof or body apart, unless some of you have tried that and consider it a dumb idea. I also need to clean and repaint the diffs, springs and bullbar. I will be doing the painting in stages due to time and space constraints (I dont have a good space to store all the body parts)

    I have done a search here on the best chassis paint and POR15 comes up a lot (and KBS), though I understand it needs great surface prep and has a somewhat narrow application window for the 2nd coat - Two things I'm not sure I'll be able to achieve. I was hoping to find something that was a little more forgiving for surface prep and time between coats and wanted to know if any of you had any recommendations? I was thinking of adding Penetrol to the paint in order to help it penetrate any poorly cleaned surfaces or between bolts, which means I need an oil based paint, though I don't have to (I can paint it on by itself before or after anyway, if i want).

    I was looking at Septone Chassis Black (bituminous) or Subframe Black (not bituminous?) for availibility and cost - it will be cheap and easy to touch up damaged paint - but am happy to spend more for a longer lasting product. I had also thought of using a bed liner product for wear resistance.

    Thanks in advance

    Dan
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  2. 14th September 2021, 02:53 PM #2
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    Prep and Raptor it Chassis Painting Advice

    Then flood the insides with POR
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  3. 14th September 2021, 03:07 PM #3
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    I'd just use an Epoxy Enamel like KillRust or its equivalent these days. Satin gives a nice finish on a chassis. Its easy to brush or spray, very forgiving of the surface its applied to, and easy to patch up later.
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  4. 14th September 2021, 08:08 PM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    I'd just use an Epoxy Enamel like KillRust or its equivalent these days. Satin gives a nice finish on a chassis. Its easy to brush or spray, very forgiving of the surface its applied to, and easy to patch up later.
    After paint has dried, WAXOYL over the paint, in the chassis, under the guards

    I’ve done couple of trailers (the 110 leaks enough oil to not warrant it) and nothing sticks to it, a quick hose takes off dust and mud if it does stick
    One of the trailers was bare metal and come up good from the waxoyl, probably due for another coat
    Chassis Painting AdviceChassis Painting AdviceChassis Painting Advice
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    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)
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  5. 14th September 2021, 08:11 PM #5
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    Or coat it with Tectyl.
    Can be brushed on nice and thick,or sprayed on.
    Works well,seems to stick to anything.dries with a waxy sort of coating.
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  6. 14th September 2021, 08:39 PM #6
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    Never heard of Tectyl
    Seems very similar to waxoyl but with a cheaper price
    Ive still got a tin of WAXOYL for the 110 but it has a good layer of oil (self applying)
    I’ll put some on the shopping list and maybe do a comparison on the next vehicle I give a underbody spray

    Chassis Painting AdviceChassis Painting AdviceChassis Painting Advice
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  7. 15th September 2021, 06:43 AM #7
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    Another vote for epoxy enamel.
    I tend to stipple it on (stab with a bristle brush) ends up giving a finish like spray painting when you get good at it. Can't do it with a synthetic bristle, makes a mess of the brush.

    Haven't used POR (Paint Over Rust) but have read of people having problems. Apparently self levels so gives a good finish.
    Fades in direct sunlight so OK on a chassis.
    KBS is a rival product to POR.


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  8. 15th September 2021, 06:42 PM #8
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    Killrust
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  9. 15th September 2021, 07:20 PM #9
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    Not bagging the product
    But years ago I used KBS on a 130 chassis
    Followed instructions to a tee
    It came out beautifully

    BUT

    To be honest the finish after 6-12 months of use was no different to killrust enamel or bituminous underbody used previously …

    All finishes get hammered by rocks etc on a 4wd and you’ll need to do touch ups eventually

    Enamel or underbody is much easier to touch up and cheaper !

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
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  10. 15th September 2021, 07:29 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post


    Killrust
    I raise you Tombie! Chassis Painting Advice
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