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Thanks guys for input:D ...got bolt x2 and fited...ok....still had a few little issue's but there in.;)
Had trouble finding the right fine thread in our town...new bolts are a little looser than I would like but just used a little thread tape and a small drop of Locktite, just to hold in place a bit:wasntme: ....but can be undone if needed.:)
The plugs should not be left in.Quote:
Originally Posted by amshaw
They are BSP (British Standard Pipe) pipe plugs, with square, hexagon or socket (allen) heads, and should be available in ductile iron, steel, stainless steel or brass, at most hardware stores. They have a tapered thread which tightens naturaly when screwed into the hole. They should not need sealant or thread tape, but there is no harm in using thread tape.
They are fitted before crossing deep water. Although they only take a minute to fit, for a day or weekend trip when deep water crossings are anticipated, it is ok to fit them before leaving home (unless you have bad oil seals).
They should be removed afterward, and left out until the next trip with deep water crossings. This is to allow the bell housing and timing cover to drain oil/water that leaks from the seals and condensation due to changes in temperatures etc. It is not essential to remove them straight after the water crossing. A couple of weeks wont hurt if the water crossings were only moderately deep, unless your oil seals leak badly.
Hi Guys,
A 1/4" BSPT brass plug (British Standard Pipe - Tapered), about $1 from any plumbing or tube and fitting place, will do the job admirably. Don't worry about the plug being a tapered thread that won't go in all the way. Just screw it in finger-tight then, say, half a turn with a spanner to make it firm.
I leave mine in all the time and remove them during each oil change to see if any oil (from perhaps a leaking crankshaft seal) dribbles out. If nothing comes out (as so far) they go back in until next time.
IMHO they are essential if you're EVER likely to get in water any deeper the wheel hub depth. Getting muddy water/silt into the timing cover and/or clutch is guaranteed to cost big $ eventually.
I have breathers installed instead of the wading plugs. ( The concept is similar to breathers on the diff housings.)
Parts needed are a brass union same thread as the wading plug at one end with a connection to a 1/4" ( I think) clear fuel hose at the other. The hose runs up to the top of the firewall in the engine bay, and there is atttached to one of those cheap in line fuel filters. I presume the fuel filter acts like a one way valve - lets the air out but prevents water entering
These breather kits can stay in permanently and avoids the need to install and remove the wading plugs all the time. ( and then losing them )
You're supposed to leave a small loop at the bottom where the fuel hose connects into the union, that way you can look under every now and again to see if it the clear tube is filling with oil, without taking it off. ( I've found this is not that effective though because the hose doesn't stay clear for long )
I got mine as a kit from one of the specialist LR dealers - about $45 to do the clutch and timing cover from memory ( this wax three years ago they may be slightly more now.)