Spares list for touring - input needed

I reckon that is the biggest overkill I have seen for a while.
It also looks really old . Injection doesn't work too well with a mechanical pump.
Oils
Engine oil will do for the diffs for a reasonable time and also will run an auto trans. Its extremely unlikely you would hole more than one thing.

Boiled water will top up a battery Ok, and who has batteries that take water now?
Normal water will do in the rad, or take some soluble oil, in a tiny bottle, not 13 l of coolant. Hoses maybe. Just change to new ones if old ones are more than 5 years old, and take old ones as spares. Bars leaks/ wynns stop leak yes. Belts yes. In Saudi in 45-50C , I changed hoses and belts every year.

Ignition OK agree as everything is small and light

Engine /fuel system OK but take spare electric pump.( have had an old Facet die 100KMs from Riyadh in desert . not funny.)

If an auto have the starter motor looked at if over say 160K, before you go!.This is the main thing that could stop you in an auto.

The main issue with all this is , if you add a heap of weight in spares then you are likely to do damage to the suspension.

I have not heard of a broken sump, or auto trans , or diff in many years, and bearings only go if neglected or overloaded.So check before leaving.

If you are going to such remote places that you need this level of spares then you should be with other cars, and the common spares should be shared ie one guy brings 5l engine oil one brings diff oil. last time I took engine oil the bloody bow saw ate through the container.LOL.

It will always be the Murphys Law that will catch you, such as a diff blowing, and you cannot plan for that. These days 99% of us go to places where there will be a car along within a couple of days. So plenty of water is the most important bit.
Regards Philip A

What about some fencing wire. Always good to have a roll lying around, there is often not a fence handy:angel: . I also always carry a couple of spare wheel nuts. Also the EPIRB is another option to add to emergency comms.

all good info guys!

actually to be honest, I'm not going anywhere right now, just putting together a list for future use!

I figure there should be such a thing as a "generic" spares list...

To be honest, I carry a set of belts, hoses and leads (ones that worked but have been replaced) even on normal roads where I can get help...

I've split a top radiator hose once only 300km after replacing it due to age (dodgy manufacturing of the new one I guess), so it helped having the old one on hand and a screwdriver to remove and refit the clamps... oh and a funnel with fine mesh filter for the creek water :eek:

Camel Landy. I can see where you are coming from with the rockers and pushrods but what about the timing belt?
You wont need those bits and pieces unless the belt lets go, and if it does what about the gear needed to install the new one.
I drilled and tapped the front timing case for a 1/2" bsp brass plug (top left near the injection pump wheel) so that I can keep an eye on the belt condition.
Looking at mine, the rubber doughnut on the tailshaft could be its Archilles heel.
llandro

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Originally Posted by llandro

Camel Landy. I can see where you are coming from with the rockers and pushrods but what about the timing belt?
You wont need those bits and pieces unless the belt lets go, and if it does what about the gear needed to install the new one.
I drilled and tapped the front timing case for a 1/2" bsp brass plug (top left near the injection pump wheel) so that I can keep an eye on the belt condition.
Looking at mine, the rubber doughnut on the tailshaft could be its Archilles heel.
llandro

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Yep... The Cam belt was covered under the "Full set of belts" section. From that I'll let you make the assumption that I carry a cam belt (and appropriate tools) with me. ;) That said... If you're really stuck, you can use a selection of drill bits to do most of the timing belt change with.

Now... That 1/2" brass plug. Have you thought about sticking a breather in it? That way you could 'T' off from the turbo hose (the one that goes to the fuel pump) and run it into the cambelt casing. Why??? Well, it would allow you to presurise the casing thus preventing water/grit getting in when you're deep in the poo! :cool:

Mark.

Camel Landy: re pressurising the timing case.
Not a good idea, always a chance it will blow the camshaft and crankshaft seals inwards, but more importantly the case becomes a pressure reservoir so when you lift your foot off the accelerator the pump boost diaphragm is going to remain depressed until the pressure drops back to zero.
Mine doesn't leak oil into the timing case so the wading plug stays in all the time (bell housing also)
The bloody thing is starting to weep from the rear diff pinion though, any one know the dimensions or CBC no. of the seal please?
llandro

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Originally Posted by llandro

Camel Landy: re pressurising the timing case.
Not a good idea, always a chance it will blow the camshaft and crankshaft seals inwards, but more importantly the case becomes a pressure reservoir so when you lift your foot off the accelerator the pump boost diaphragm is going to remain depressed until the pressure drops back to zero.
Mine doesn't leak oil into the timing case so the wading plug stays in all the time (bell housing also)
The bloody thing is starting to weep from the rear diff pinion though, any one know the dimensions or CBC no. of the seal please?
llandro

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When you lift your foot, the turbo is still spinning & supplying pressure anyway. No big deal.... Pressure is only ever going to be 1bar max and it's a little trick used on the Camel Trophy (it was also something mentioned when I did my 300TDi training at LandRover....). That said, I've never bothered doing it.... :D

Mark

way way way too much stuff to take away. you'll not have any room for your gear or the spares for the trailer that you need to take it all in.
maintain your car before you go, keep an eye on the condition of components and if they are worn and you think they may go, replace it before you leave.
unless you are really going to thrash your car in a race environment, most of the parts you've listed will never be used. accidents do happen and that is why you need your long range communication. take things you know how to fit. take things that will get you to the next service center. even if your heater hose goes, you an usually use the remainder to by-pass the heater matrix to get you thru.
Keep It Simple...Stupid K.I.S.S.

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Originally Posted by barney

way way way too much stuff to take away. you'll not have any room for your gear or the spares for the trailer that you need to take it all in.
maintain your car before you go, keep an eye on the condition of components and if they are worn and you think they may go, replace it before you leave.
unless you are really going to thrash your car in a race environment, most of the parts you've listed will never be used. accidents do happen and that is why you need your long range communication. take things you know how to fit. take things that will get you to the next service center. even if your heater hose goes, you an usually use the remainder to by-pass the heater matrix to get you thru.
Keep It Simple...Stupid K.I.S.S.

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With a tongue like that Barney you could pass for Gene Simmons.

I totally agree with you Decent comms, first aid, emergency beacon, maps, itinary with relatives/friends, spare tyres and a regularly serviced and insured vehicle, emergancy cash. Oh and your towel and toothbrush

When travelling carry stuff that can fix...not stuff to replace...

Duct Tape, Fencing Wire, Welding rods, Tools and Bush Mechanic Skills

otherwise you should carry a spare Land Rover behind you.

Travel light but prepared.