To get my D2 wheels off I sat on the ground and kicked the inside of the tyre, rotating the wheel as required to get it off evenly.
Hi,
Similar problem to some discos, but it's a Ford 1999 Courier ute.
Has centring hole in the steel rims that sit on a shallow flange on the front hubs. (rear flanges are segmented and not a problem)
Went to swap front wheels with the rears today because the rear tyres wear twice as fast as the fronts.
The last two times it got new rubber at the local tyre joint I could hear them out the back bashing the crap out of the front wheels to get them off and they were quite open talking about the problem.
I can tell they've actually brushed grease on the front flanges for 'next time', but this certainly hasn't helped today.
Tried the trick of loosening the wheel nuts and going for a bit of a drive, which included potholes, swerving and hard braking on bitumen. No joy.
Any other ideas please?
DL
To get my D2 wheels off I sat on the ground and kicked the inside of the tyre, rotating the wheel as required to get it off evenly.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
More force required than that.
The other issue is if one of the fronts needed to have the spare on, it would not be possible to do it.
DL
I once stopped to help youngsters with a flat tyre on the rear of a small front wheel drive car. The steel rim was stuck like yours which apparently was renowned for these vehicles. I removed the hub then with the wheel lying on the ground I bashed the hub with my D2's tow-bar adapter, being the closest item that I had on hand to a sledge hammer. The tyre being flat allowed the rim to sit on the ground for a firm base and I fitted the wheel nuts to protect the studs in case I missed the hub. My tow-ball looked rather sad by the end of it but easily replaced.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
Got them off with an improvised 4 ton hydraulic puller.
One side was over the limit of that and needed a belt with the back of a wood splitter with a block of wood in between to get it off.
Might post some pics later.
DL
I got my D2 wheels off by loosening the nuts a few turns and driving (slowly) a 100 metres or so while gently turning the steering left and right. Works a treat.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Some pics...............this was the first side, will it work?
FC1.jpg
First side came off with a bang, like the steering arm coming off a RRC. Second side set up:
FC2.jpg
This side was harder, put a couple of wheel nuts back on loosely, 4T jack is maxed out pressure wise:
FC3.jpg
Had to give it a belt with the back of a woodsplitter with a block of wood in between and it came off:
FC4.jpg
Cleaned the rust off the flange with a file and on the centering hole on the rim with a flap cylinder.
FC5.jpg
Used copper anti-seize on where they get rusted on, but there may be something better to use. The tyre joint had not used grease last time.
DL
If you watch the first couple of minutes of this you'll get Mike's take on copper anti seize. Probably not so important on wheels as they come off more often than clutches, but still food for thought.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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