LT230 leaking at the rear - but where from?

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

You perhaps should buy a new rear output shaft flange

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Since the flange has to come off anyway might as well replace it and try to save going back in there for a while.

There’s a kit for the flange - STC3433
Or it’s available solo - FTC4942
Is it worth getting the kit to replace the nut (NY120041L), washer (FRC2464) and seal mud shield (FTC4941) at the same time?

Is the bearing (STC1130) also easy to replace while in there?

FTC4939 for the actual seal itself.

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Thanks. So it doesn’t have to leak through the hand brake assembly then to be the rear output seal.

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No
But there is more than likely oil in the hand brake assembly

[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav

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Originally Posted by Tins

Or, as it's the handbrake, you could use the old 'soak 'em in metho and set 'em alight' trick.

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Originally Posted by Gav 110

That’s a new one[emoji1531]
Never heard of that before, I’ll pass that tip onto my nephew, he is a believer in the easy way out
His response to any sort of oil leak is to “put some brake fluid in it”
He swears by it for “repairing” seals in power steering systems
I call it the TD rebuild (TD are his initials)
Brake fluid and a can of white knight black spray paint makes it new again 🤣🤣

[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav

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Originally Posted by Tins

Well, we used to do it all the time when drum brakes were common. However, it was mostly to burn off brake fluid soaked shoes when wheel cylinders leaked. It worked fine. Gear oil would be harder, I guess, but I'll bet it would work. No way you'd burn the brake shoes themselves. You could even use a gas torch.

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Metho for brake fluid, petrol for diff oil. [bigwhistle]

Not that I'd ever advocate such as it's highly dangerous, but someone I know may have done it to brake shoes many scores of times several lifetimes ago.
It saved the purchase of new shoes, especially when they weren't very old, and worked extremely well.

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Originally Posted by Tins

Well, we used to do it all the time when drum brakes were common. However, it was mostly to burn off brake fluid soaked shoes when wheel cylinders leaked. It worked fine. Gear oil would be harder, I guess, but I'll bet it would work. No way you'd burn the brake shoes themselves. You could even use a gas torch.

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I remember doing this when linings were riveted into place but now they are bonded I'm not sure how the adhesive would hold up.

I got a tour of PBR some 15 or so years ago and they passed a current through the shoe to create heat to bond the lining in place.


Colin

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Originally Posted by gromit

I remember doing this when linings were riveted into place but now they are bonded I'm not sure how the adhesive would hold up.

I got a tour of PBR some 15 or so years ago and they passed a current through the shoe to create heat to bond the lining in place.


Colin

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I look at this way.
Linings and pads see from 550-600° and up to 800° temps at the extreme, (and some race pads a touch higher) the bonding should be ok.

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Originally Posted by rick130

I look at this way.
Linings and pads see from 550-600° and up to 800° temps at the extreme, (and some race pads a touch higher) the bonding should be ok.

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A quick'google' comes up with brake adhesives that withstand temps exceeding 315C.
I'm sure some adhesives withstand much higher temps but I'd be cautious.....

Colin

So lots of comments about brake shoes but any thoughts on the rear output shaft bearing? Should that be replaced when changing the seal and flange? Is it must more additional work to achieve when in there?

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

So lots of comments about brake shoes but any thoughts on the rear output shaft bearing? Should that be replaced when changing the seal and flange? Is it must more additional work to achieve when in there?

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Well, I posted the link to the Ashcroft kit. If you are going to do it why stop at the seal? Do the whole thing, you know it makes sense.

Be careful re the rear output bearing.
I know it's a different case but when I replaced the rear output bearing in the Borg Warner in my RRC, the bearing turned out to be quite exotic in that it was a special wide tolerance bearing, which I eventually found in Germany at great cost.
The important thing was the suffix.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by Tins

Well, I posted the link to the Ashcroft kit. If you are going to do it why stop at the seal? Do the whole thing, you know it makes sense.

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A few reasons why I’m hesitant to not do the whole thing:
1. More time and complication to do so at a time not currently convenient for such.
2. Sometimes things that are working fine and best left untouched. The transfer box in my D2a was fully reconditioned with Ashcroft ATB within the past four years or so (approx 50,000km traveled within that time) and is leaking now.