Firstly, this isn't for a Land Rover application , its for SWMBO's Jeep CJ10. Last week it dropped a pinion bearing leading to very bad things happening inside the diff and requiring a rebuild, diff is a Dana 60 with 35 spline axles and the CJ has a pinned chassis that allows a fair bit of chassis flexibility giving the vehicle pretty good articulation for a leaf sprung machine.
Since we have to rebuild the diff, it would be silly to replace the original limited slip centre with the same so I'm calling on the expert knowledge here for some advice:
How difficult to live with is a detroit locker on a vehicle that could be called agricultural at best so NVH on cornering probably isn't a big issue, however it will be driven on bitumen for a proportion of its use.
How much of a disadvantage is a truetrak's inability to deliver torque to both wheels when one is lifted in the real world offroad?
I've got an elocker in the back of the 130 so I'm fairly comfortable with it's capabilities but they are more expensive, especially considering the pile of other bits I've got to buy![]()
I'd be grateful for your experiences.
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
Hi Tote - you know my 101 - well it has a detroit in the rear since 2009. You would never know it is there and in normal driving you never hear it. The only time you might hear it is on bitumen when turning on full lock in slow conditions like U turns - also tight turns on grass can rip it up a bit. Dont believe the old stories of noise and impacts on steering which were probably true for early versions but not relevant now.
Now I agree having the flexibility locking and unlocking with other lockers may be an advantage but there is the issue of cost. Back in 2009 the detroit cost $550 and at the time I also bought a ARB air locker to go in the front (still sitting under the bench) and with the locker air compressor came to $1400 at the time - so as a cost benefit analysis going the detroit is a no brainer - no real operating disadvantages and a major cost advantage.
Buying from the US may save money if you can work around stupid shipping costs - the ARB locker from the US is also a lot cheaper (or was).
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Freight from the US is a bit of a killer, some places like VPW are actually cheaper if they happen to have what you want in stock, but if they don't, delivery times are quoted when the next container is due. Still doing the sums on the best approach
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
There are shipping agents that can be used - Tombie knows of some or you could just get someone to slip one in a diplomatic bag![]()
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
OK I had a Detroit in my 77RRC.
There are a few things that are a bit annoying but gee they work well.
1 On soft going they increase the turning circle a lot. EG mountain track in the rain, you have to remember to cut the corner and maybe zip off the accelerator.
2 On a muddy slippery track with a camber you will drive sideways. I once went from Wanaaring to Bourke sideways most of the way.
3 If you accelerate hard in say second high to third high around a gentle curve you will feel the car nose in as you change gear.
4 At roundabouts you have to be smooth or you will get some clunks.
5 If starting at say traffic lights that are on a slight curve you may get a very loud clunk as power is applied. Mine regularly used to clunk at only one set of lights at Spit Junction.
I don't know how strong the Jeep axles are but I had to fit JACMAC axles to my old 12 spline as I broke a couple and permanently twisted some admittedly in the Nissan Trials.
All in all would add to a Jeep.
I went to maxi rear and Quaife front in my 91 RRC and it was awesome.
Regards PhilipA
Re Quaife or other torque biassing. The one in the front of my RRC was almost totally transparent, with just a little more self centering than normal. I never saw a disadvantage, but you can of course drive through brakes to load a wheel in the air.
+1 on the detroit locker , I have had one in my 130 for a LOT of miles , simple , bullet proof & gives no problems .
Possibly not the perfect locker for the purists , but very effective none the less .
Scares the **** out of you the first few times you get the bang , after that you just ignore it .
Dunno about jeeps, but in a RRC with an automatic trans with the centre diff locked you can emulate traction control by just using your left foot very gently on the brake, while your right foot is on the go pedal.
That said I've got the front MD locker in and hopefully the rear when I get time. Just for those odd occasions...........
DL
Thanks for the responses all, you have dispelled my concerns around the Detroit locker, I reckon that's the way we'll go.
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
Personally I'm a fan of the Trueurac . I wish I could get one for the Power Wagon , but the only options for the Old Chrysler 9-5/8" diff is the Detroit Lunchbox locker or ARB .
Check this out I have front & rear truetrac in my EV Series, Going up the obstacle you see it loses traction when a wheel lifts & rolls back , Then I apply left foot lightly on brake to make the Truetracs do their thing.
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