LR to CAV options

**langy** · 2nd August 2006, 02:01 AM

Those who went ot the expo might have seen LRH's LR to CAV filter adaptor

Since I've hit 280K, I went and cleaned out my sedimenter, and apart from the interesting stuff I found in it, I noticed it seems the same size as the CAV unit.

So I looked around and Whitworths marine had a whole CAV assembly on special

This housing isn't for the front: Whitworths has old imperial ( 1/4 NPT) stock: although they sell appropriate tails, for a swap of the LR housing, a metric version is required. ( ie the Banjo bolts for the LR filter head are 14mm metric).

Whilst I may find a metric CAV head or buy an adaptor for the front, I figured why not experiment with the rear housing.

Since it is a sedimenter, this is how it is rigged- fuel from the tank enters on the right, flows across the plastic umbrella in the assembly (not shown) and then drawn up from the center and out on the left. With a filter attached, it has to be reversed. Easily done, just a matter of swapping the blanking plugs around.

And voila!

Drawbacks: It is 2cm longer than the original unit, but the same diameter. If I didn't have the sway bars, I'd be apprehensive about what would happen at full articulation, since the propshaft donut is nearby.
2nd: The sedimenter portion of the filter is glass. This I'm not too worried as the glass is really thick. A cheap metal shield should suffice against stones flying up.

Initial response: Performance is good so far, no need to bleed, the Tdi just sucked it up no probs.

Result: A 6 micron filter easy to find filter costing $8 instead of a 20 micron $35 hard to find filter, and a backup system - if the CAV blocks, I just replace the original sedimenter assembly, and go back to factory filtering. And come replacement time, it seems easier to access the rear than where the front is (Draining the front is messy, difficult amoungst injector pipes.)

**rick130** · 2nd August 2006, 04:45 AM

I've contemplated this a few times, but was worried about the pressure drop through the filter, being on the suction side of the lift pump.
Obviously isn't a problem.

Oh, and the bosch type filter up front filters to around 6 micron nominal as well

**JDNSW** · 2nd August 2006, 05:53 AM

My 110 had this when I bought it, so have retained it. As you say it is a simple and easy modification.
John

**Dinty** · 2nd August 2006, 07:00 AM

G'day All, I have done this conversion many years ago on my 110 County 3.9Diesel. One trap for the people who are not mechanically minded is that the sedimentor type trap does not have a O-ring in the center mount of the head of the body, like the fuel filter does, just something to be aware of if you are contemplating the swap cheers Dennis

PS I hope that made sense as I can't post pix

**LRHybrid100** · 2nd August 2006, 12:33 PM

G'day Langy,

I was also looking at installing this in the rear - as I said $5 fuel filters then get changed every 5,000kms with the fuel and filters.

Let me know how you go and I may persue!!!

I am also planning on using this for my D100 to filter for the petrol lines - some mods needed and diff micron filter I have been advised, but should work the same.

LRH

**one_iota** · 2nd August 2006, 06:50 PM

Is the rear mounted filter susceptible to off road damage?

**langy** · 3rd August 2006, 04:26 AM

For Mr Dinty and others - although it doesn't show it in the photo, the Disco LR sedimenter does have a rubber o-ring .

And as to damage: The filter itself is metal, and the whole assembly is only 2cm longer. I'll definately fit a stone guard, but it is reasonably well protected on all sides by chassis, a-arm and diff. At least if it does get broken, I have a back up plan in the old sedimenter assembly, which now lives with the spare belts and fuses.

**landrovermick** · 3rd August 2006, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by langy

For Mr Dinty and others - although it doesn't show it in the photo, the Disco LR sedimenter does have a rubber o-ring .

And as to damage: The filter itself is metal, and the whole assembly is only 2cm longer. I'll definately fit a stone guard, but it is reasonably well protected on all sides by chassis, a-arm and diff. At least if it does get broken, I have a back up plan in the old sedimenter assembly, which now lives with the spare belts and fuses.

so did you actually leave the old base in place? and just use the bottom part of the unit... looks like the old top bit still there in one of the pics

mick

**langy** · 3rd August 2006, 06:38 PM

yep,the top of the sedimenter is identical to the top of the cav filter,except that the in/out ports are threaded different. Even the bolt that holds the whole thing together is the same

**Gavo** · 3rd August 2006, 07:08 PM

Why don't you use the metal base or bowl off the sedimenter. The bit with all the junk in it on the first picture should mate up to the bottom of the cav cartridge, this would eliminate the glass.
My stage one 3.9 Isuzu has a metal base on the filter.
You may need to get a shorted or longer main bolt, which is a standard thread.

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